AikiBarista

Improving Clarity

2011-09-07T15:44:00.005-06:00

When it comes to coffee and espresso, clarity is important. We've had the same filtration system since we opened, and it's time to improve it. I've been wanting to upgrade our water filtration for a while now. I've ordered two Everpure Claris filter systems.

It is an adjustable filtration media that includes a five stage process for eliminating scale, dirt and fine particulates, odors/off flavors. I believe that for the money and simplicity it's the best system out there.

The Claris uses a Hydrogen (H+) ion exchange rather than a Sodium (Na+)exchange.

"The Claris resin is loaded with hydrogen (H+). The hydrogen ions dissolve the carbonates (CO32- and HCO32-) , and the resin then removes the calcium and magnesium ions (Ca2+ and Mg2+). This process also lowers the pH."

I will soon find out how it tastes.

A Continuous Journey

2011-09-03T17:27:00.010-06:00

I started roasting in 2005 on a little one and a half kilo roaster from Korea.

The IMEX Digirosto 1500.

It came with three main profiles, each which had a multitude of roast levels -- about three or four, were actually useful. In addition, it could entirely manual as well. For me, it was about setting the profile to what I wanted, and controlling the beginning and the end of the roast. If the roaster did it's job during the bulk of the roast, the results would be good. Great in fact. Now I might have skipped over the 40 to 60 pounds of charred, unusable, and just plain wrong batches that I slogged through. But it forced me to understand the balance between technology and craft, between science and art.

You can poke your finger and it won't hurt a bit, but that's if you poke it with a marshmallow. Poke it with a pin, it might be a little uncomfortable, but you'll draw blood.

Understand the tool you are using, but more important, produce results.

In late 2007, I had the opportunity to install another roaster. Because there is no need for venting, and the technology intrigued me, I knew that the best roaster for my needs would be the one from Fresh Roast Systems.

This roaster is precision quantified.

Made primarily for use in large high-end markets where venting is not possible, I was one of the first small roaster-retailers able to use one.

And like anything else, it's a tool.

While it's initially simplistic in it's operation, it's nothing but simplistic.
I could now roast with much greater precision. Airflow. Drum speed. Drum charge temp. Roast start temp. Roast finish Temp. All comprised within the Roasting Profile to the second. What you have to remove is your ego. Understand that those things that you think you are detecting, you're not. How to blend, how to change a roast, that's mostly art. The process itself is more science than art. As art it's more intuition than definition.

Understand the capabilities of the tool. Use it to its potential.
As a roaster, it involves no less thorough study.

But with greater capability for precision there was a need for greater investigation in profiling. Peaberry, Pacamara, SHB, Medium-soft Brazils, Wet Processed, Dry Processed... and any other permutation and combination of cultivar and processing method.

There's always more to learn, and it's that continuous thirst for zeroing in on what's important and discarding the tasteless overly intellectual pablum that keeps me moving forward.

In the end, the results are in the cup.

And the journey will continue.

Espresso: Too soon is never "too soon"

2011-08-31T16:37:00.012-06:00

Sometimes espresso is too fresh to use. But there are times when I need to pull shots sooner than expected. I usually wait several days after roasting before testing my espresso, but since we we're sold out on whole bean espresso, I needed to test a couple days earlier than usual.

At altitude espresso acts differently than at a lower elevation. What might be good at three to five days rest near the coast might need closer to seven days at altitude. So testing at less than 48 hours here involves some forecasting and manipulation.

I grind on the ultrafine end of espressodom, and knowing my components, I say 17 grams. Now keep in mind I'm just looking for tasting notes, not perfection at this point.

I pull the first shot and the crema is outrageously wild.

I tighten the grind a little more.

The crema is manageable and the aromatics are off the charts. Smell. Sip. Pause while my brain runs through my limited tasting vocabulary. Sip. Develop a mental tasting picture of the espresso. Finish. Ponder.

Now I stop pondering to think, and as I ponder my thoughts, I

Name it. Write it. Bag it.

Done.

"Soul Finger" -

This jazzy cacophony of flavors will leave you shouting joyously to the open ears of frantic handless pantomimes.

This three bean blend brings coffees from Sumatra Mandheling, Ethiopia Guji Quto Suke and a wonderful coffee from San Martin de Leon Cortes.

In the cup it's rhythmic raspberry and stone fruit with a punctuated praline-toffee sweetness. Recommend: 198.5 – 199F, 17g, 28 S.

And it tastes exactly like it sounds.

This will be something special.

Good Methodology = Good Espresso

2011-08-26T15:05:00.002-06:00

I love testing new espresso. I also love testing whether or not something will work as a Single Origin espresso or as a component for espresso. Today I had some extra Guji Suke Quto from last night's tasting class. Now I've used this as a component of an espresso, but I haven't really tried it as a Single Origin. Golden opportunity. This allowed me the opportunity to test without roasting an entire new batch, and if the roast level I used for the coffee will work or not.

So the question I am asking is, "Does it work?"

I'm pretty systematic about my testing. I know what range of grind to target, so I pick a midpoint and start from there. I keep the Synesso at the temperature set for the current espresso (199 F). No need to change until after I taste... but that's still a bit away.

One step at a time.

I tare the portafilter and grind. How much? I guess and see where I'm at. 17g. Ok. Tamp. And as Captain Picard says, "Engage!"

First I'm just watching for flow. It's too fast.

I adjust the grind a little finer. I dose the same weight. Looks a little better...
I'll give it a taste. Sip. Mild citrus, hint of nut. ... good, but it seems like it's lacking something. It's not a one dimensional coffee. I know there's more there. I just have to find it.

Let's approach 18 g.

Puck looks pretty good.

I always pull a second one so I know if it was a fluke or not, and it looks the same.

Taste.

Bingo!

First sip - Candied ginger, sweet citrus and jasmine. Second sip - warm spice, a touch of bergamot, honey sweetness. Finish - dark honey to maple sweetness, restrained citrus, hint of spice.

Does it work?

I'd say, "Yes." But it's not that simple.

All coffees aren't this easy. Even when they work. Sometimes I go through ten or twelve shots and I'm about to give up, then everything comes together. And then it fades. The real question isn't "Does it work?" The real question is, "Can I do that again?"

Well, can I?

Grind. Dose. Distribute. Tamp.

Taste.

And the answer is

.
.
.

Yes!

How to name an espresso: a study in serious amusement

2011-08-21T19:22:00.002-06:00

We roast a different espresso every seven to ten days. About twenty-five percent are Single Origin, and the others are blends of three or less various coffees. I do in the neighborhood of thirty-five to forty various blends per year, and aside from the challenge of finding things that work well, there is the challenge of naming my blends.

I used to have only one espresso blend, "Mountain Mambo", and I did experimental blends now and again when I couldn't source what I wanted. I numbered those blends up until fifty-three, and then I decided that having new espresso was not only more challenging, but more rewarding to our customers. Over the past several years, I've named everything. Sometimes there is a rhyme or reason, and usually that reason is to amuse myself.

Here is a random sampling of some of our espresso over the past year and the rationale for naming them. Tasting notes are included so you know what you've been missing.

A Shot for Rita - Java Kopi Sunda and El Salvador Santa Rita. A cup of coffee or coffee being simply known as "java" led to this extrapolation of a shot of espresso, and hey, since Rita is here, it should be for her.

In the cup: Orange peel, plum, caramel sweetness w/ bittersweet chocolate finish.

Best Pancakes Ever! - Sun-dried Brazil Bahia and a micro-lot Colombia peaberry from Tolima. This tasted like an awesome syrup that would rock on pancakes. 'Nuff said.

In the cup: Dark berry syrup, warm fruit, caramel sweetness and a touch of cinnamon.

Luigi's Obsession - Brazil Yellow Catui and Uganda Bugisu. Luigi loves his plums!

In the cup: Italian plum and lemon with dense chocolate and caramel sauce background.

Baskerville - Regional Brazil from Minas Gerais and Kenya Kirinyaga Peaberry. Release the hounds! The huckleberry hounds.

In the cup: Raisin, peach, macadamia, with huckleberry highlights throughout.

The Odd Couple - Sumatra Takengon and Kenya Kirinyaga Peaberry. The size difference in these beans prompted the name.

In the cup: Fig, tropical fruit sweetness, and warm spice.

Braz in Pocket - Brazil Fazenda Aurea, PNG Kimel, PNG Baroida. BRAZil and PApua New Guinea. PA sound like in "pocket".

In the cup: Cocoa, clove, ginger, citrus finish.

The Hammer - Brazil Fazenda Colina, PNG Baroida Plantation. This was an intense espresso. A lot coming at you. When I think of intensity I think of strength, and a lot of strength from steroids. BaROIDa reminds me of steroids. So who historically was almost superhuman and could have possibly been on steroids, but we just don't know. John Henry, the steel drivin' man, he died with a hammer in his hand.

In the cup: Intense pecan and hazelnut with candied orange peel. Fruit and chocolate highlights.

Dodgy Jam - El Salvador Finca Matalapa Puerta Zapa, Costa Rica Finca La Ponderosa. When I tasted this espresso it was a funky Euro Pop beat with a twist. Imagine Rowan Atkinson and John Cleese dancing with a club full of fiery German and British youth.

In the cup: Mango, dried peach, blackberry, hazelnut background.

We've just finished pulling shots of E-squared, a blend of two regional Ethiopian coffees - Yirgacheffe and Guji Suke Quto. lots of sweet bergamot and floral notes, with a dark honey and malt sweetness.

When it comes down to it, the flavor is what drives what beans can join in harmony. The naming, that's just self amusement.

Espresso is a harsh mistress

2011-08-18T07:51:00.006-06:00

Are you thinking about having a shot of espresso? You should be! Espresso is quick, small, packed full of flavor, and when you sip you can hear a heavenly chorus in the distance, and you know the wonderful experience unfolding before you. At least, that's how it should be.

I am amazed and bewildered at what people have accepted as espresso. Bitter. Sour. Thin. Unpalatable. And it's usually because there is little respect or understanding for the ingredients being used.

Yes, espresso is a harsh mistress, fraught with eccentricities that make her either a delight or a beast. Dismiss her complex nature, and she'll bring hell upon you. But make no mistake, if you tame her, she will bring you pleasure beyond compare.

So the next time you are looking to have a shot of espresso, make sure that she is being treated with the respect she deserves. You will be kindly rewarded.

Roasting with a friend

2011-08-15T16:27:00.003-06:00

I love to roast for the experimentation and for the discovery, but outside of that, it's fairly routine and mundane. I roast as needed, and that usually means Saturday or Sunday night plus one weekday. Most of the time I have a loose idea of what I will be roasting. We usually try to keep two or three different coffees plus one espresso for sale. It tends to be quiet while I roast because it's best to do it afterhours.

This week Yama, our white dog, wanted to come to the store to assist. Now of course he is not that familiar with the roaster, so I just let him guard the empty jute bags so that no one would try to sneak something inside them while he was on top.

Roasting, cooling, labeling, bagging was par for the course, but between every step, there was my friend looking for an answer as to why all those people are walking on the street at 11:30 at night, and why is it raining so much... and Hey! Where's my cookie? I didn't have any good answers for the first two, but sharing the cookie was easy.

Yama has yet to try his paw at the roaster, but it's the familiar pitter patter of his dancing paws, like the sound of cement raindrops cascading across the floor, and his excited laugh-like pant that made it a wonderful night of roasting.

Taming the Roast

2011-08-03T16:46:00.003-06:00

A recent visit to a couple of well-known coffeeshops out of town got my mind thinking about a few things.

Coffeeshop A hit the scene first. They roast their own coffee. And they do a fantastic job. Coffeeshop B came about a few years later. They also roast their own coffee. But the word on the street, and from what I tasted from both shops, Coffeeshop B has the edge. (As coffeeshops, I would rate both very highly... in fact, I like the vibe at Coffeeshop A better.. but this post is not about that)

Why? It's the roast.

I've been roasting coffee for our caffe for a little over five years now, and although constant improvement is necessary in this business, I'd like to think I'm pretty good at what I do. One thing that catches my attention is when I taste something in an espresso that I know is difficult to do.

Many of the progressive shops, for good or bad, have a "me too" thing going on. The current "me too" is bright and sweet espresso. Both of these shops do it. One is just better at it. In this case, I'll call it "taming the roast". And the reason this is important is that it carries through to all of their coffees. I don't have to taste them all to know they will be good. The display of skill in the espresso says everything I need to know.

When roasting bright and sweet coffee or espresso, there seem to be three tiers of roasters.

The Third Tier roaster will make the mistake of roasting too fast and too short of time. This will leave the coffee underdeveloped and often have a sweet grass essence, or a best a tangy lemon acidity that manages to shroud everything else in the cup. I've tasted many of these. I've been there myself. It's a great step to get past.

The Second Tier roaster has a better grasp on things and manages to concoct a very respectable citrus sweet espresso...that's often one dimensional. And I have been there too. There are some coffee that aren't kind to me if I try to roast them too light. So I don't. I believe many coffees have multiple sweet spots. But not all coffees have multiple sweet spots. Trying to force a coffee to taste how you want it isn't always the best idea. Taste it. It will tell you what it wants from you. Sweet and bright is often dull and boring. It's like a Reisling that hasn't matured. You're sure there's something magical, you can almost taste it. Almost.

The First Tier roaster understands how to coax the nuances out of the bean. They take the brightness just to the edge, and just when you think it's too much, another subtle layer of flavor steps in and takes over. It's an mesmerizing dance of roasting magic, and it transforms a single note offering into a symphony of flavors.

In my mind, the current roaster at Coffeeshop A has passed the Second Tier, but has not yet figured out how to consistently cross the threshold into the abode of the First Tier roaster. And this is actually the third time I've had their espresso. It's always been good, but right now, there are subtleties that Coffeeshop B understands how to capture better.

The roaster at Coffeeshop B is several paces down the hall of the First Tier abode and is walking slowly but surely to the game room where play time is about to happen. Sometimes I stumble into this realm, and other times I stride with confidence. Like all roasters, it's a matter of perfect practice. There's plenty of room inside the First Tier Abode. But it takes consistency to stay there. To those who have mastered the taming of the roast, I enjoy and appreciate your craft.

Customer Growth - common mistakes and solutions

2011-08-02T08:45:00.000-06:00

Author's Note: Many new shops come and just as quickly as they come, they are gone. I'd rather see people be successful than fail. Nearly all failures can be attributed to poor planning, but improper strategies can be almost as fatal. This short piece is for all new and prospective owners. Dismiss this at your own peril.

You have navigated through all the hoops, attended trade shows and seminars, traveled here and there to gain perspective, and now you've opened your doors. The one issue that sends many new owners in the beginning months into a panic, and a panic that often leads to poor decisions; is "How do I get more customers RIGHT NOW?"

There are several responses to this state of panic. I will talk about the most common, when they can be good, and when they are likely a road to failure. There are a few major metropolitan areas in the country that are also coffee-centric, so it is possible to blindly stumble through a successful run just based on pure numbers. For most of the country, it's a much more precarious balancing act.

The three most common (and misused) responses to "How do I get more customers right now?" are: Punch cards, coupons, and changing the menu.

Let's look at these.

Punch Cards:

This is perhaps the worst thing you can do in terms of a long term strategy. Can they do some good? Yes. IF you have a strategey in place ahead of time. The strategy is data collection. The end result of a long-term punch card program is not customer retention... it doesn't work that way. They are not loyal to you, they are loyal to the discount.

If Punch cards are brought into play, a better strategy is to use them as a one time thing. One new customer, one punch card. And the card can only be redeemed by having X purchases, and filling out name and email legibly on the back. Now the drink should be "one on us" not FREE.

Words matter. FREE says, "This drink has no value" but if it's "on us", it has a value, and you are gifting it to them. So, you're not exchanging the drink for the purchase of nine drinks. You are exchanging the drink for their information. The other drinks just get them to form a habit. But no second card! Just enough to "thank" the newcomers, and to collect their data. Now you can direct market to each of them. No, don't send them coupons. Interact. Include them on inside information about what you are doing, what coffees you have coming, and pass along a little education. Let them know that you are their Jeeves when it comes to questions about coffee and espresso.

Coupons:

The most often used is the infamous BOGO. Again, not good as a long term strategy, and should never be used outside of your opening months, if at all. This can sometimes be used when you first open to get people in the door, but once again, it's of utmost importance to never use the word FREE in your advertising. Now a number of marketing tomes, most useless, will say that FREE is one of the words that grabs attention. Yes. It grabs the attention of people looking for a discount. "Buy a latte have a second of equal or lesser value on us." would be fine. Have a "One coupon per customer" and to all that is holy, put a freakin' expiration date on it. No more than two to four weeks out.

As a long term strategy, neither punch cards nor coupons are good. And here's why.

Punch cards and coupons are the number one contributors to "The leaky bucket syndrome" -- you keep trying to plug the hole with a discount, but you keep leaking customers because they are NOT customers, they are bargain shoppers. So if you use them at all, use them only as short term strategies. Get their attention, sure, but if you need to offer a discount a second time, then you have to face the reality -- you have a lousy product.

Changing the Menu:

"You should add blended drinks", "How about adding breakfast items", "Maybe you need soup." OR "Your prices are too high".

Changes like this are never good. Does it gain you customers? NO. But it will give you plenty of opportunities to test the merits of Excedrin.

The moment you take these kinds of suggestions from customers seriously is the moment you've signed on for a downward spiral of doom. Those people who want you to change what you are doing are not your core customers, and probably will not be long term supporters of your business.

Have a core philosophy. Know what you are doing as a business and stick to it. It is as simple as that. You're an owner now, act like one.

Raise prices, yes. Lower prices, never. A wise man once said, "I never saw someone go out of business by charging too much" It's about value, and value isn't a number, it's about getting more than they expected. It's about the customer saying, "$4.50? That was fantastic! I would have paid $5"

So the question was, "How do I get customers?"

Have a plan in place.

To expect hundreds through the door on the day you open is not grounded in reality. You should expect to have enough capital to cover all of your expenses for several months out. Didn't do it? The honest answer would be, "Good luck." That kind of situation is why 7-10 businesses fail. It can all be directly related to poor planning. So avoid failure by planning well.

Building a customer base takes time, but panicking never solves anything. With Twitter, Yelp, Google, Facebook, and all the other social media forums, it's much easier to get the word out now than it was five or ten years ago. Take advantage of the mediums available. They can connect you with potential customers in a way that wasn't possible before. Word of Mouth is always the fastest way to grow as a small business, and Word of Mouth via social media is a whole new ballgame today.

Have a great product.

This goes without saying, but this is where most fail. Don't do the "old and busted" do the "new hotness".

Offer something unique.

Be the first in your area to roast on site, to offer coffee by the cup, to offer espresso only, to offer house made syrups, to teach classes, etc...

Building a customer base is something you are constantly doing. It begins day one, and it never ends. It's a testamant to your business savvy, the quality of your product, and your willingness to be daring.

It all starts with your first cup.

Thoughts on SCAA 2011

2011-05-02T18:53:00.006-06:00

I'm back from the SCAA, and for Yiching and me, it was a short Friday to Sunday trip.

Much thanks to Jay Caragay for thinking of me when he came up with this presentation. I thought it went well, although I would have loved more feedback from the audience, particularly directed to any of the specifics each of us focused on.

Things I think:

There is too much fear and complacency in the coffee industry.

V60, or any pourover. should not be done by untrained barista. Clearly evident in many of the offerings at the show.

Tracy Allen is a coffee professional's professional.

Strada: A journey in hype?

Note to Exhibitors: It would help to have people working the booth who actually know the product.

Baratza has an exceptional new grinder.

A properly made pourover tastes great! Too bad I only found one.

James Hoffman always looks taller in person.

There needs to be a separation between the "Specialty Coffee" and "Coffee is Special" crowds.

Brewer's Cup needs a huge overhaul. Coffee first is the right direction, but breathe some life into it.

Didn't see his performance this year, but it doesn't matter, Pete Licata goes above and beyond. Great win. Fantastic representative.

Houston is an incredibly polite and friendly city.

Purple dinosaurs and customer etiquette

2011-04-08T17:03:00.028-06:00

Barney almost has it right when it comes to understanding the relationship between a small shop owner
and their customers.

I love you You love me
We're a happy family
With a great big hug
and a kiss from me to you
Won't you say you love me too

He's got it right...

if you live in a land where sun shines out of your ass, and puppy dogs and rainbows are a daily sight.

We love our customers, but as a small business it's about establishing an understanding of how what we do means something to our customers, and what our customers' support means to us. All of our customers who come to spend time inside our shop always buy a drink. It's understood. But for those who are new, we need to quickly establish expectations.

customer: The word derives from "custom," meaning "habit"; a customer was someone who frequented a particular shop, who made it a habit to purchase goods of the sort the shop sold there rather than elsewhere, and with whom the shopkeeper had to maintain a relationship to keep his or her "custom," meaning expected purchases in the future. (http://www.dictionary30.com/meaning/Customer)

Both Yiching and I grew up in a culture where it's understood that when you go into an establishment and take a seat, be it a cafe, coffee shop, bar or restaurant, you order. It's called "customer etiquette", which is something that many people seem to have forgotten. People come in, they want to enjoy the space, the warmth or the cool air, the music, and the people, but they seem to have forgotten the reason for being there-- enjoying a drink AND all of those other things.

All of our tables have a little sign:

And on the back it reads:

"Yiching and I give all our daily energy
to operate caffe d'bolla.

Our passion is in every drink we make for you.
It's the soul of what we do.

Therefore, one cup minimum is all we ask.

Every cup represents an understanding
between you and us
of love for something exceptional
and this is what supports caffe d'bolla.

Please enjoy every sip.

Thank You."

We've had this policy for years, but found it most effective if customers can read and understand rather than having to tell them. Making this policy clear has done several things: It creates a better caliber of customer all around, it shows current customers how important their support is to us, and it lets newcomers know we take what we do very seriously. And it virtually eliminates any bad customers.
We've had a positive response from our customers. There are those few who don't get it, but there's a place for them... it's called 7-11.

So to our customers we say,
"Thank You!"

The importance of cup shape and design

2011-03-23T16:49:00.014-06:00

I have been thinking about demitasse cup shape lately. You see, most cups are about the same, whether it's the nova point moka brown ones or the IPO white cups and even the tulip shaped cups really fall into the same category. But I have one demitasse in my collection, a small brown cup from Germany, that, hands down, is the best demitasse for espresso I have used.

One of the key questions I have asked myself when looking to get the best out of a cup of coffee or espresso is: How do we capture and transmit the essential aromatics? As many know, it's the aromatics that are the most important factor in determining the flavor of the coffee. All things being equal, the better the presentation of the aromatics for the particular beverage, the more dynamic and richer flavor experience for the consumer.

That being said, the typical demitasse has an opening diameter of 2 1/16" to 2 1/4" and a height of about 1 7/8 to 2". This particular demitasse has in opening diameter of 2 1/2" and a height of 1 3/8". This wider opening, shorter and less tapered design creates more surface area for the crema and allows your nose to hit closer to the center of the cup rather than the edge. This essentially surrounds your nose with aromatics. Also, the way the flavors present themselves in the cup seem somehow more pronounced, beyond what the aromatics should provide. My theory is that the dispersion and layering of the espresso is different enough that it results in enough separation for greater clarity without losing balance.

While it's certainly not enough for a scientific trial, I've had about thirty shots of espresso to compare (60 total) on roughly 12 different espresso - both blends and SO, and I've pulled about eight shots for our best customer who gets espresso daily. The first time I made an espresso for him in this demitasse, I didn't say anything, and all he could say was "Wow!" to the same espresso he had earlier in the day, but in our normal demitasse. Every time we each remark at how good it tastes.

When it comes to the siphon, cup shape certainly matters to us. Now the best shape when it comes to the aromatics of the coffee, is actually a Champagne flute.. but at about 4-5 oz, expensive, and a general pain in the ass to keep spotless... it's not the most practical delivery system.

We therefore specifically use tapered or tulip shaped Japanese bone china, and a few German as well (for some reason, the handles on many of the German cups are oddly small). The cups are usually 7-8oz, but sometimes five. Larger doesn't make any sense at all. It's the same reason why you don't serve wine in a one liter boot or hefty stein. And the shape maintains the best aromatics out of the useable drinking vessels. A smaller cup with a smaller diameter also works well too. The nose isn't as pronounced in the beginning, but it will maintain a balanced clarity throughout.

One of the most important aspects of choosing the right cup, is raising the level of the coffee experience for the customer. To make coffee by the cup, and serve it in a paper cup is insane (and not the good kind!) . Or to serve it in the same ceramic you use for everything else really doesn't convey the specialty of what the customer is about to consume. How can we expect a customer to understand what they are receiving if we treat it the same as every other cup. And if EVERY cup is special, then treat every cup that way. Find the best way to prepare, and the best vessel to serve in, and in doing so you honor the coffee, the customer, and your business.

Quality vs. Speed

2010-07-07T08:51:00.004-06:00

The question was asked:

When there is a surge of customers, do you hurry through the drinks, sacrificing quality for speed, or do you expect your customers to understand that it takes a couple of minutes to produce good lattes, and even more time when there's seven of them?

John Says...

Strive for perfection in every drink; it will show, and your customers will wait. On busy days, customers will stand in line for ten minutes just to have a shot of espresso. This need for waiting a long time is rare, but from time to time it happens. If you establish the quality of your product with every drink, including dumping bad shots during a mad rush, I really don't see it as an issue. What I do see is a golden opportunity to educate your customers on your commitment to serve each of them the best drink possible.

Regarding Selling Whole Bean vs Pre-Ground

2010-06-15T12:28:00.015-06:00

The question was asked...

When selling coffee, does it help to know which of your customers grind?

John Says...

Coffee should always be sold fresh-roasted, and whole bean. Quality is not an inconvenience. Quality=Caring.

If you educate on the pros of fresh ground and the cons of pre-ground coffee, offer grinder suggestions, or sell grinders yourself, that is often a good solution. But, in my opinion, if you grind *only* in order to make the sale, you are missing the point. The owner that doesn't care about how the coffee reaches the customer doesn't care about the customer; they only care about making the sale. And that is sad.

I'm certain some owners may see that as too hard core, but if you care, your customers will care, and follow suit. Does it eliminate a portion of possible sales? Yes. But it's these kinds of principles that will open doors to a whole new array of wonderful customers.

2010-06-12T12:46:00.005-06:00

The Question was posed:

"What is Specialty Coffee?"

John Says...

Although great strides have been made in the industry, the sad fact is the term "Specialty Coffee" has lost its meaning, and 'Artisan Coffee' is nearing the same state. When Specialty Coffee started, many think of Starbucks and Peets as the forerunners. Others think of what George Howell did in Boston in the 70's and 80's the true forerunner to 'Specialty Coffee'.

Is Specialty Coffee the Starbucks model?
Is it about focus on blended, syrupy, gimmicky, profit first drinks? Is it about being a cool "coffee shop"? Is it about the 'Third Place' or is it about the coffee at the 'Third Place'?

Or is Specialty Coffee something more? Is it about craftsmanship, about elevating coffee to a new level? Is it about understanding the bean, how the various flavor elements found in different varietals can be combined together in a grand symphony of flavors? Is it about truly understanding why we fresh grind, dose a particular amount, distribute uniformly and tamp uniformly? Is it about CoE coffees, and Is it about "coffee as a culinary experience?" Is it about customers' smiles coming from what's in the cup, rather than what the barista are wearing?

Whatever the term has become, "Specialty Coffee" should truly be about Special Coffee!

I think there should be a definite distinction between the average "coffee shop" and "Specialty Coffee". Specialty Coffee should not be about frappaccino type drinks, 32 ounce lattes, or the latest copycat Starbucks drinks. Specialty Coffee does not need gimmicks such as sexy barista, funky furniture, Organic jalapeno lattes, double punch Tuesdays, BOGO coupons, balloon animals, etc.

Specialty Coffee should be about what the 'average' coffee shop looks to for inspiration. As an industry do you want to be a host of Starbucks wannabees competing on who can create the tallest whipped cream on their banana caramel double fudge (half-caf)latte? Or do you want to be something that both proprietors of old and new can aspire to be? Specialty coffee should not pretentious or exclusionary. Excellence welcomes all who care to champion the quality cause and wield her cup. Specialty Coffee should mean something other than a fancy catch-phrase. Specialty Coffee should be about raising the bar. And if this is so, why do so many aspire to be average, or fail to even see the where the bar has been raised?

All of us barista, shop owners, roasters, and coffee enthusiasts should be leading the industry to the best of our ability, helping it progress, and living up to the embodiment of what Specialty Coffee can be.

On Brewing Into the Cup

2010-06-12T12:24:00.007-06:00

The Question was asked by George:

Q: While reading and learning, I've ran across statements that indicate the quality of the shot is better if brewed directly into the serving cup. So my question is, how many of you brew into the serving cup, shot glass, or brewing pitcher. Does any of the three have advantages over the other?

John Says..

I believe it's a must. I wouldn't frequent a place that as a practice brews into shot glasses and transfers. To me, it shows a lack of understanding of espresso. The essence of espresso--the body/flavor/mouthfeel, etc. all result from having proper crema.

If you transfer, there is too much loss of crema. This results in a significant loss in taste and body, as well as makes it more difficult to do proper latte art.
Even with the gallons of milk some shops like to shove into their drinks, it makes a HUGE difference. These are still espresso based drinks, and if the base is not perfect, it will resonate throughout the drink.

Secondly, it's an unnecessary step. Why brew and transfer?
More dishes to wash (I hate washing MORE dishes!!), and you lose a good portion of the thing (espresso) you just went to the trouble to make. What is AWFUL is those who do decide to use this method, who reuse the same shot glasses instead of grabbing fresh ones for every drink. At least make the effort. This ultimately is the fault of the owner. The barista, for the most part, will only do as they are trained. The world-class barista will always question methodology and seek a better way.

BUT if you are not fresh grinding per drink, with fresh roasted beans, and doing all the other things that are necessary at a minimum to make proper espresso drinks--it really doesn't matter--go ahead transfer away, no one will know the difference.

George,
asking implies caring. And that is the right path to be on. Every day is a new day to improve.

Panama Gesha - Hacienda Esmeralda: Sweet and sublime perfection

2010-04-02T19:31:00.009-06:00

It's been two hours since I've had my second cup of Panama Gesha Esmeralda, and the flavors are still lingering on my palate like morning dew on a blade of grass.

I've tasted Gesha cultivar a few years ago in a wonderful "Don Pachi" from Stumptown, but this is the first batch of Gesha from the wonderful Hacienda Esmeralda that I have roasted myself.

Today I've tested two cups of this coffee on the siphon, and this transcends every coffee I've had up to this point.

First what hits you is the aromatics, they playfully coax your senses where you can almost feel the texture in your mouth before it touches your lips. As it cools to drinking temperature you get a sense of what you are about to have.

First is the silky smooth mouthfeel and sweet berry notes. Careful to take only sips so you can decipher the blueberry from the raspberry and strawberry. In the middle of nowhere a sweet jasmine note leaps out. As the cup cools some notes are sweeter and brighter and some are round and fruity. Some flavors nestle on licorice. Some flavors mingle on berries. Others playfully dance about your mouth with cautious merriment. Red currant. Strawberry. Soft jammy blueberry layered on sweet jasmine. As it leaves my mouth the sweetness lingers, the flavors hide in my cheeks only to reveal themselves minutes later.

The last sip. blueberry, strawberry, jasmine. Both separate and together. Smoothness. Gentleness. Sweet and sublime perfection.

The Best Cup of Coffee - caffe d'bolla's siphon brew

2009-07-18T17:52:00.002-06:00

The best cup of coffee
› Caffe d’Bolla’s siphon brew

"This is not your breakfast cuppa java—you may not have time for your usual second cup. Caffe d’Bolla’s transcendental coffee is brewed by a master fanatic who pays as much attention to making your single cup as he might to walking a tightrope without a net. It deserves to be savored just as attentively. 249 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-355-1398"

Salt Lake Magazine link HERE

(Excerpt from) The Short List: SLC Eats [Downtown]

2009-07-08T08:17:00.000-06:00

From Vanessa Chang @ she craves
"...People can think what they want about this adopted city of mine. We, like Buffalonians and Oaklanders, travel beyond our city limits with stereotypes and a barrage of lame jokes. The reality is, Salt Lake City is a bit of secret. Some of us like to keep it that way (those who already think there are enough California refugees in state limits) and some who love to preach the affordable cost of living, gorgeous landscape and the fact that not everyone is "of the faith."

I often tell my baffled out-of-state friends to think of SLC (all cities seem to have a hip or diminutive moniker, NYC, Sac-Town, Philly...) as a Chicago. A cultural — and in Utah's case, a political — capital surrounded by perceivably less enticing realms. The only difference: Red rock is infinitely cooler than acres of government subsidized corn.

Thanks to a variety of factors, we are a surprisingly diverse lot on this blue island in a very politically red sea. And despite the officializing of Jell-O as the state food, we regularly consume other cuisines. Some are of the innocuous chain variety. But a good deal are local endeavors that feature talented chefs, local products and even — get this — alcohol. Private club laws that plagued the city have gone the way of the covered wagon. I'll drink to that.

My day job means that I get to troll much of the state in search of the best molé, tom kha ga, frites, hand made pasta, micro brews, wine lists, pastries and more. I often get asked for dining recommendations through the day job, my work with Slow Food Utah and this blog. It's safe to say that downtown SLC has a high concentration of the good eats, all within walking distance of the public transportation. I even urge locals to use since parking is a nightmare. Plus, Trax trains are free within the downtown area.

So, for curious readers and soon-to-be travelers, I offer what I consider my shortlist of good, interesting Downtown SLC eats. [NOTE: This is by no means a comprehensive list of what I dig in the state. For advice beyond city limits, i.e. if you have a car to take you into other neighborhoods and cities, contact me. I'd love to dish.]

For another perspective on the City of Salt, check out this thoughtful blog from a fantastic writer and food-lover.
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Caffe d'Bolla [249 E. 400 South, #B, 801.355.1398]

For caffeine freaks and connoiseurs alike. SLC's teetoling and caffeine-free stereotypes belie the coffee geniuses who have set up shop in the city. Most notably, is John Piquet's Caffe d'Bolla. Along with his wife, Yiching, he micro roasts high quality beans, sourced from all over the world. He talks coffee the way a sommelier talks wine.

This is not the place for lovers of Java/Espresso/Joe/Cafe/Etc. "Express," or "On the Go." This is thinking man's coffee. You come in, order one of the daily brews or a finely pulled espresso shot and sit down and sip like a civilized person.

Caffe d'Bolla is one of the handful of cafes in the country that offer Japanese siphon brewing. This laboratory-looking contraption brews elegant cups free of grit (sorry, Greek coffee lovers) and full of nuance. Watching John measure and grind the beans, track water temperature and set the timer is akin to watching the rituals of a Japanese tea ceremony. Only this time, you sit at the bar, with a tall glass of water and a shot of sparkling water to cleanse the palate.

Plus, richly flavored, densely smooth gelato, spun in small batches, on-site and some of the best Boba Tea (tapioca pearl tea) in the region.

Take TRAX to the Library Square stop, Caffe d'Bolla is right across the street on the north side."

http://shecraves.typepad.com/my_weblog/2009/07/the-short-list-slc-eats.html#more

Follow me on Twitter

2009-07-01T20:19:00.000-06:00

twitter.com/caffedbolla

Siphon Brewing and Commitment to Excellence

2009-05-23T19:35:00.006-06:00

Recently, we were noted in Salt Lake City Magazine as one of Utah's Must Try Culinary Creations. *note this is not an ordered list, or a culinary masterpiece, such as Creminelli would assuredly be listed ahead of the Jello.

"47. A cup of siphon coffee

Chances are good that you’ve never tasted a cup of coffee like this. That means, in a sense, you’ve never really tasted coffee. It takes a coffee fanatic to think the resulting cup is worth the science project of making it. Fortunately, Utah is a great breeding ground for fanatics of all types. Caffé d’Bolla, 249 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-355-1398, caffedbolla.com
saltlakemagazine.com

Achieving excellence in any endeavor is more about the commitment to the process of excellence, rather than just to excellence itself. For us, sourcing great coffees is just the beginning. Several trips to Japan, talking to and filming siphon barista there as well as tweaking roasting profiles and having an insane dedication to have absolutely no cream or sugar in our siphon coffee has helped us to get people to see coffee in a whole new light. People plan their driving routes on vacation to stop and have coffee, they've been late for airplanes, delayed meetings, changed office locations to move here, and in some cases flown across country, just to have a cup. Would I say it's the best cup possible? No, but I won't admit to being second either.

Coffee is at a crossroads, you can truly do something great to showcase the coffee, or you can spend a lot of money on glitz and hype. While McDonalds is out there demeaning coffee and the barista profession, rather than just laughing it off we all need to continue to raise the bar.

In order to truly raise the bar, it's not just the passion, or coffee knowledge... because there are countless roasters, barista, and others that have loads more technical coffee knowledge. The problem is, they don't have the commitment to back it up. Why source spectacular coffees, some even farm direct and serve them as "drip". It makes no sense to me at all. Press, Melitta, Eva Solo, Siphon, etc. Great coffees should be made by the cup, and to do otherwise really means you're not committed to the coffee. Don't just say you're committed to giving the best coffee has to offer, do it, and don't compromise. That is what we have been doing since we opened. I'm hoping many more will follow.

Men (should) Buy Drinks

2009-01-13T17:17:00.006-07:00

One thing that we have noticed occurring with an alarming regularity is that boys are no longer behaving, or taught to behave, as men.

We have several groups of late high school and early college girls who come to our caffe for drinks, and tagging along with them are their (only God knows why) boyfriends or just boy friends. The girls all promptly order and when asked what you can get started for them, the boys reply with a "Oh, I'm good."

There was a day not long ago when any young man of wage earning age would be embarrassed to accompany the fairer sex and not either A) buy something for them, or B) Buy something for themselves. This says a lot about the erosion of the nuclear family, and the lack of male leadership in the home, the falling away of boys being taught to be men.

Men belly up to the bar. Men buy drinks. Too many young ladies accompanied by boys.

Sad.

Perspective

2009-01-12T17:28:00.005-07:00

During a recent vist, a colleague of mine brought up the Gerber (E-Myth) quip, "You're working IN your business, rather than ON your business." when he asked how much time I spent at work.

There are two main reasons why someone opens a small business.
1) They love what they do (and they make money doing it).
2) To make money supporting what they love(d) to do.

Now if your love is money, or your love is owning a business, then there are many businesses you can start with that end goal in mind. Create a business. Create a system. Watch the business grow. Repeat. Now if your love is books, or pastries, or sushi, or coffee, or cute crafts, then at what point does your love become business?

Let's look at owner operated shops in other countries. You can see many of them if you watch Rick Steves travel shows, where tourists walk around happily to happy owners in happy shops all over Europe. Small restaurants, wineries, caffe, pub, clothing stores, etc. Some of these are fourth or fifth generation. Families go into work doing something they love as part of their culture, family, or something they discovered in their journey of life. Work schedules are long, but not overwhelming... Want a vacation? Take one! Want to change the schedule? Change it! Want to begin something new? You can do that too. The idea that working successfully IN your business is not as rewarding as standing aside and watching someone else do it often mystifies me.

Again, ask yourself the question, "If I love X so much, then why is someone else doing it for me?" And that's ok. It's just a different perspective.

I love working for myself. I love working with my wife. I love making, tasting, brewing, roasting, and understanding coffee and espresso. It's not work. It's love.
But I don't think I need to limit myself to one song, one drink, or one business. Sharing the daily opportunity for us to grow this business together will always make the caffe "home", but that doesn't mean there isn't a little condo we have our eye on as well.

Stay tuned...

The Varietal Language of Coffee

2008-12-14T11:42:00.005-07:00

I grew up with the same coffee that many of you did. Somewhere between something that was mountain grown, and the local cup of Joe that could have been substituted for paint thinner. This was the time when coffee mumbled. Unintelligible mutterings that continue to linger in many dank holes today... but let us go back....

There was this generic coffee flavor that we linked with all coffee. Aromatic, yet bitter, deep, but unremarkable, character, yet sameness. Whether it be the standard Colombian or something exotic like Kenya... it pretty much all tasted the same. And when it was different, we tried to mirror that sameness by matching the preconceived coffee flavor in the dark recesses of our mind by flattening out the bitters, sharp tones, and burnt staleness by a glob of sugar and a plop of milk. As we created some artificial semblance of coffee like flavor, we were satisfied that we could take something that was unpalatable and make it... well, recognizably average.

There are a growing number of farmers, roasters, and coffee professionals that hear the bean speaking to them. At first, it was some coded language, but it was the farmers who first understood that although the beans shared a common history, they had all developed their own language. Coffee speaks to us, but not in words, or sounds, or symbols. Coffee speaks to us in flavors.

As we listen to what the bean is telling us, we can learn, through cupping, and by maintaining a varietal roast what stories they have to share. The history of the cultivar, the feeling of the land, the heart of the farmer, the care of the millers and the sorters, the science and skill of the roaster, and the love and passion of the barista all combine to tell the story of each coffee to the world.

Each cup we serve speaks volumes, and like a pristine first edition, we savor every word as it linguistically flavors our tongue. So when you have a moment to savor the unspoken word of coffee, educate yourself by the cup and pass on your knowledge to others by sharing a taste of the varietal language of coffee.

Naicha

2008-11-07T19:42:00.003-07:00

Hairy white mountain
love dancing from four warm paws
hugging with her smile.

The Siphon Bar

2008-11-01T10:00:00.006-06:00

We are just finishing our second week with the siphon bar at caffe d'bolla and the results are starting to come in.

The Siphon Bar has created a lot of new conversation about the coffee and the brewing method. I believe that this is the best way for extracting the dynamic varietal flavors out of the coffee.

Clean and dynamic
brewed above shimmering light
coffee perfection.

Heart of the Forest Espresso - A Great Start!

2008-10-25T19:58:00.004-06:00

On our caffe blog, I tell about our exclusive espresso blend for Tony Caputo's Market and Deli.

I stopped in to see Matt and Tony this afternoon, and as a brand new offering, the coffee and espresso is selling well. I'm roasting new coffee early this week, and it looks like it will be a great relationship.

Ethiopia Koratie DP -- in the Siphon

2008-08-23T20:21:00.005-06:00

Wow!

This coffee was roasted to a dark city, almost full city roast... but I would do it at a lighter City roast next time to highlight the sweeter flavors.

In the cup the initial sips are blueberry up top and peach on the bottom. Midway through the cup a tiny hint of melon flavors begin to come through, though still surrounded by the blueberry.... and a bit of bitter cocoa in the background.

Blueberry and cocoa begin to dominate as you finish the cup. It finishes with a blueberry bittersweetness. I believe that the sweeter fruits would be more prominent and balanced at a lighter roast. I will report on that next time.

Total brew time on the siphon: 45 seconds - 35 brewing up, 10 to descend.

If you're average and you know it...

2008-08-23T18:58:00.000-06:00

... Clap your hands!

There are a relative handful of coffee shops that deliver a quality product and continue to push the envelope. They have knowledgeable and well-trained barista, they roast very good to phenomenal coffees or offer exquisite coffees from a top notch roaster/roasters.

Each of these shops continues to improve their craft and exhibits an eagerness to learn from the top down. These shops make it known that this is what they do, they stand behind it, and more often than not, they deliver in the cup. (Hey, nobody's perfect all of the time, it's the ability to learn and improve that separates the talkers from the doers. )

Now there are thousands upon thousands of coffee shops that confuse, dismantle, and lower the bar with every cup they serve. They source coffee based on price alone. They over roast or buy stale coffees from roasters selling at a discount. Each of these shops takes interest in trying to look cool while having no relevant information to pass to their customers, and their lack of skill and dismissive attitude at the craft of coffee is displayed from the top down.

I wonder? If so many coffeeshops work and train hard at being average and mediocre, why don't they profess it to the world? There seems to be a place in the market for these kinds of shops, so come clean and let the world know. If you're average and you know it, say it proud!

Thoughts on Roast Profiling

2008-08-09T18:39:00.004-06:00

I've been working with some new roast profiles this past week. There are three camps on this issue:

The first is that the progression of roast via the roast curve makes a difference with respect to each bean. The second is that there is an optimum roast curve based on the chemical processes happening within the bean, and it is the knowledge of when to drop your beans that matters. The third camp would say that there is a generally acceptable "Point A" and a generally acceptable "Point B", and if you go from A to B quickly, and then it's a matter of leveling off and progressing the roast from there... it really didn't matter HOW you got from A to B, as long as you didn't stall the roast... in the cup, wouldn't matter. And you can be sure there are countless variations of all three.

The simple question is: Does profiling matter?

I would place myself somewhere amongst the first and second camps. I think that as a practical solution, there may be an optimum profile for various types of beans, and while there may be a perfect profile for every bean, I have neither the time nor the beans to waste to find out. I think that there is a profile for most SHB (strictly hard beans), and as Willem Boot proposed, a profile for the larger beans, such as the Margogype, and/or the more delicate beans such as the Gesha. Because of their size and density, I believe there is a profile that is best suited for peaberry, although I haven't found one I am 100% satisfied with. And it may be there needs to be a more
gentle progression the latter stages of the roast because any endothermic heat built up has a greater influence inside such a small bean. ... I'm still working on that.

I've spent a fair amount of time profiling in previous years, and my roaster has the ability to take profiling to an insane level, and from my hands-on experience, I will say that the degree to which profiling matters is directly correlated to the complexity, or quality, of the beans. If I get a generic Brazil Cerrado and tweak the profiles, there isn't much noticeable change in the cup. However, if I roast a Brazil Cachoeira Estate, a Brazil Daterra Santa Columba, or especially the Brazil Fazenda Esperanca, the more flavor nuances there are, the more critical the roast progression is into highlighting the "middle" complexities of these coffees.

Internally, there is a slight difference in the nature of the bean, because I can see it when I grind. For example, do you increase by 30 degrees a minute, 40 degrees a minute, or something greater? Is it a straight progression to first crack? Is it a graduated progression? Or does it progress faster as time goes on? I am finding that a gradual progression after reaching first crack seems to produces a little more
sweetness and distinctive flavors, while another curve may produce an amalgamation of those flavors, but they may not be as precise. Sort of the difference between what many find in espresso from a Robur vs. a Super Jolly.

Suffice to say, profiling is interesting, and I think that we are just scratching the surface. There are some theories that are complete b.s., and others that I've found out to be true, but what I am certain of is that the more the bean has to offer, the more profiling matters.

At least that's what I think.

New Coffees at the caffe

2008-07-25T21:42:00.001-06:00

New Coffees at caffe d'bolla!

*Costa Rica El Puente "Caturra Miel"
* Panama Golden Peaberry
* Guatemala Finca San Jose
* Sumatra "Blue Batak" Tabarita Peaberry
* Ethiopia Koratie DP Organic
*Columbia Antioquia - Jardin Cerulean Warbler

The "Incident" - An Observation

2008-07-19T19:13:00.009-06:00

Some of you may be in the dark regarding the "Incident" at Murky Coffee in D.C.

There has been literally thousands of comments across the blogosphere regarding this tiff, and it brings some important issues to light:

This is not your father's coffeeshop.
Coffee has progressed incredibly over the past twenty-years, from the farmer cupping their lots, testing various drying methods, utilizing the science of cultivation--which can create a higher quality bean, to the artisan barista who spends countless hours understanding dosing, leveling, and extraction techniques... and who has to master the nuances of each espresso just as a concert pianist masters various pieces of classical music.

Several coffeeshops across North America have raised their standard of coffee and espresso quality to be greater than the food quality of most high end restaurants. It is the average shop, where over-roasted bitterness is the norm, that continues the thought that coffee is a method of caffeine injection, rather than a culinary experience. For these handful of shops that treat coffee as a culinary experience AND deliver it, a higher standard of respect should be given by their customers, as well as a higher level of decorum should be present in the barista.

This begs the question,

"Can we serve an exceptional product while maintaining a casual atmosphere and expect a high level of respect from the customer?"
There is a casual elegance you can find in many restaurants. Take a look at some of the seafood restaurants in San Fran as an example. Shorts, nice shirt, maybe even sandals... dinner for two, $400+
Is it a product of the atmosphere? Of the pricing? Is it a matter of revamping the entire atmosphere to elicit a different response, a different expectation from the customer?

These are questions I have been thinking about for a few years now and while I have a few solutions in mind... it is the implementation that is hardest. But I do believe you can raise the standard by raising the expectation through better presentation and consumer coffee education.

But the customer wants...
When you get a McFish from the Golden Arches it is entirely different from ordering the Seared Ahi Tuna loin at Charlie Trotter's; the same holds true for coffee.

Quality isn't for the Everyman, and rather than try to appeal to everyone, customers are given the best service by a continual raising of standards along with continued pursuit of excellence in our craft. All of this translates to an exceptional cup, and that is the greatest reward we can give.

Brazil Fazenda Esperanca: a few days later

2008-07-11T12:30:00.003-06:00

I've enjoyed several more cups of this coffee in the past two days, and as time has progressed, the flavor nuances have become a little more defined, and the caramel-citrus finish is a bit longer.

I can't quite put my finger on some of the flavors I am getting in the middle of the cup. I'll have to give it a go again, but in a few words, it's good, really good.

More to come!

2008-07-09T17:48:00.004-06:00

Our 3000 pound shipment from overseas has arrived!

Siphon brewers and accessories, and wonderful new teas will be available soon!

Espresso timing vs. flow

2008-07-02T16:39:00.011-06:00

Observations of the day.

Most of us are familiar with the "Golden Rule" when making espresso -- 3/4 to 1 ounce of espresso in 25-30 seconds, or roughly double that volume for a double shot. When pulling a shot of espresso, how concerned should you be with the timing? How concerned should you be with the flow?

Obviously a combination of both must factor into play, but without going into the myriad permutations you can have of this or that, you come down to the main questions..

Too fast or too slow, which is worse?

There is always an ideal range you want to fall in, but between the two, you would rather have a thirty-five second or greater pour than a sub twenty second pour.

This is because espresso, in layman's terms, is about extracting the optimum amount of flavorful oils from the grounds. But how do we determine if this has happened?

I use timing as a 'rule of thumb' guide and then primarily watch flow and inspect the portafilter to see if it is clean. If the portafilter is clean, and the timing fell in the optimal range, we can assume that the oils were extracted perfectly, and made it into the demitasse. If there are dark oil stains on the inside of the portafilter, this is usually an indication of overextraction... or poor distribution, but that's a topic for another time.

If we underextract, as many places do, and get that eleven second pour, there are virtually no flavorful oils being extracted, and unflavorful piss-like espresso will usually be the result. I can opt for intense at times, but unflavorful, weak espresso is a far worse crime.

How important is the flow?

Flow is important because it gives one a good indication of the color and density of the crema. While the existence of crema is not the end all be all of espresso, it is most certainly one of the most important factors. Crema is important because of all of the body, texture, flavor, and aroma it gives to the espresso.

It's never a simple process, but evaluating espresso by taste is the ultimate way to judge, so whether there are dark oil stains in the portafilter or it was a thirty-eight second pour, we have to use our palate as the ultimate judge. Of course, in my opinion, a great tasting espresso with indicators that it is somehow flawed can only mean there is more improvement ahead.

While this is not intended to be anywhere near a deep exploration of the subject, I hope it will at least get your brain churning.

Rapid Brewing with the Finca El Injerto

2008-07-01T21:15:00.004-06:00

Today I tested a fresh (roasted 10p last night) batch of Guatemala Finca El injerto on the siphon.

Grind 3 notches from 'espresso' on Mazzer Mini.
Brew time 20 seconds.
Rapid stir.

The taste? sweet nut, floral, light caramel and a bit of cocoa.

Wow.

Mountain Mambo Espresso

2008-06-28T17:03:00.004-06:00

While the main components of this blend remain the same, I often alter percentages and experiment with different pre and post blending methods as well as different roast levels. This way, I can discover flavors I may have missed or lost with some other combination.

This current batch as espresso is peach, mango, light bittersweet almond and hints of honey and chocolate. In cappuccino, it tastes like a peach/apricot creamsicle up front with the almond taking on a lighter, but sweeter role. Not recommended for drinks above 12 ounces.

This espresso is not for the choco choco dark caramel and wood crowd.
But for those looking for a bright, lively, multi-dimensional espresso--this is it.

Kenya AA Nyeri Kiamaina Tasting Notes

2008-06-21T20:39:00.000-06:00

John Says...

Today I tested a batch of the new Kenya AA Nyeri Kiamaina.

This batch was roasted to a City Roast at 9:00 AM this morning.
Testing was done at 6:00 PM.

I brewed several batches in the Siphon brewer, and even on day one, the flavors are coming through. Peach and maybe a hint of floral apricot in the aroma. Peach and lemon up front, with the peach dominating as the cup cools. A sweet and balanced finish of peach and honey.

I found this coffee to be exceptionally clean, even by my radical standards. It's truly a magnificent coffee and creates a cup you will long remember.

Pursuing Perfection with Panama: Siphon Techniques

2008-06-13T17:59:00.005-06:00

John says...

Today I am testing the Panama Carmen Estate
This coffee was roasted 9 days ago at a City roast.

Test 1:
Grind at 4 notches above espresso grind on Mazzer Mini.
9 grams coffee, 5 ounces water.
Coffee in. Water Boil and up. Stir to saturate grounds and distribute heat evenly.
Brew 40 seconds.
Heat off.
Stir Rapidly.
Cool and drink.

Test 2:
Grind at 2 notches above espresso grind on Mazzer Mini.
9 grams coffee, 5 ounces water.
Coffee in. Water Boil and up. Stir to saturate grounds and distribute heat evenly.
Brew 40 seconds.
Heat off.
Stir Rapidly.
Cool and drink.

Results.

This coffee being roasted a hair lighter, my suspicions were found to be true.

Test 1 was a balanced peach/vanilla with very subtle, yet sweet citrus notes.
As the cup progressed the citrus became more defined, but surrounded by an essence of vanilla.

Test 2 had more separation up front in the cup. Strong Peach notes with a bright citrus aftertaste. As the cup cooled, the vanilla came out and began to mingle with the peach.

The finish in Test 1 was sweet light citrus.
The finish in Test 2 was a bright citrus with the slightest hint of vanilla.

What does this tell me?

It's obvious that even with a small adjustment, there is a direct correlation between roast level and grind. And it is the balancing of the sweet, citrus, and more rounded, or even spice notes that are where the technique comes into play.

Tomorrow I will use the same method on the Papua New Guinea Peaberry, which has a lot of spice and tea notes.

more to come...

Revisiting Rwanda - Siphon techniques

2008-06-12T21:34:00.003-06:00

Today I am testing the Rwanda Kinunu.
This coffee was roasted 6 days ago at a City+ roast.

Test 1:
Grind at 4 notches above espresso grind on Mazzer Mini.
9 grams coffee, 5 ounces water.
Coffee in. Water Boil and up. Stir to saturate grounds and distribute heat evenly.
Brew 40 seconds.
Heat off.
Stir Rapidly.
Cool and drink.

Test 2:
Grind at 2 notches above espresso grind on Mazzer Mini.
9 grams coffee, 5 ounces water.
Coffee in. Water Boil and up. Stir to saturate grounds and distribute heat evenly.
Brew 40 seconds.
Heat off.
Stir Rapidly.
Cool and drink.

Results.

Both the aromatics and coffee on Test 1 were slightly sweeter. A little more fruit and citrus note.

In the middle of the cup, Test 2 tasted more complex. It was a collection of flavors coming together vs. a layered effect of lighter and brighter vs. wood and nut/spice.

The finish in Test 1 was superior.

Preliminary Conclusion:
Do same test on Panama Carmen Estate and see if the results are similar, or is the method entirely coffee dependant?

Stay tuned...

Espresso: IN YOUR FACE

2008-06-09T18:42:00.003-06:00

As I mentioned in a previous post, I've been experimenting with some radical blends.
I have finished the degassing on a blend of eighty percent Kenya Ruiru Peaberry and tw Guatemala Finca El Injerto SHB. I roasted the Kenya at two different roast levels. 25 percent was roasted at a very light city roast, and the rest of the Kenyan and the Guatemala were roasted at a City + roast... just between first and second crack.

Pulled as a ristretto, 16.5 g @ 198 degrees, BRIGHT orange citrus, almond, hint of dark chocolate in the finish.

In cappuccino, lightly sweet orange and almond.

Aches and Pains of Customer Coffee Transition

2008-06-07T19:46:00.004-06:00

Most coffee and espresso served is the United States is bitter, stale, over-roasted, unflavorful dreck. In order to make this bitter, unflavorful swill palatable, you need to add sugar to it, but this presents a problem for the growing number of quality oriented shops.

Adding sugar to the latte, or God forbid a cappuccino or macchiatto upsets the flavor balance of the espresso and the drink. Each roaster logs many hours of sourcing the proper beans, blending, roasting and tasting in order to create an espresso that works wonderfully alone, with milk, or both. Tweaking the roast to pull out the proper amount of sweetness, or wonderfully flavored acidity, which becomes smooth and sweet in milk... these all become corrupted, and honestly become over-sweetened if marred with sugar. And this all goes back to the habitual pour and stir, as a defense mechanism of the bitter brew consumed at most caffe.

Taste, drink, enjoy the subtleties of flavor that dance across your tongue and linger quizzically in your mouth. Do not treat such fine brew as the commoner's beverage. Rejoice at the coffee splendor you are about to partake.

Honestly, it is an offense to everyone in the chain. So for the thousands of coffee shops that serve horrendous bitter swill or under-extracted, over-roasted, old and stale espresso; please tell your customers, "it isn't this bad everywhere."

Come. Taste. Enjoy.

Three New Beans at caffe d'bolla

2008-06-05T12:21:00.002-06:00

Three new coffees in!

Brazil Fazenda Esperanca:
This wonderful coffee was #1 at Brazil's Cup of Excellence in 2007. It has previously placed 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 6th. This Yellow Bourbon, grown at 1500 meters, is a rare gem in Brazilian coffee. Sweet floral and caramel aroma, tangerine and honey in the cup.

Kenya AA Nyeri - Kiamaina:
A fantastic coffee from the Nyeri district in Kenya. Crystalline clear flavors permeate this wondrous brew. Peach nectar throughout the cup with hints of warm honey, lemon and spice in the finish.

Nicaragua Limoncillo Java Longberry:
This coffee, from the Limoncillo Estate, is 100% Java.
Sweet smokey nut flavors with soft hints of lemon cookies in the cup.

Panama!

2008-06-04T21:29:00.004-06:00

I roasted a new batch of Panama Carmen Estate to a light City roast.
Floral, tangerine/peach and vanilla as it cools.

Experimenting with a radical espresso blend of Panama Carmen Estate and an excellent Kenyan from the Nyeri district.
So far the results are promising.

Online Orders Are Coming!

2008-04-29T19:34:00.005-06:00

Orders have started coming in on our online store.

Plenty of fresh roasted coffee and espresso to go around.

A Corny Story

2008-04-17T17:32:00.003-06:00

A girl came into our caffe this afternoon.
"I want the siphon coffee... the Guatemala."
I hadn't seen her before, so I asked if someone had sent her.
She says "yes" and she's read about us online.

After finishing her coffee she stops to thank me for the cup, and starts talking about the flavors and how she could taste them in the different parts of her mouth. She starts to ask me about which espresso I would recommend, and says, "Yea, I'm in from Iowa and my friend said I had to come here and have the siphon and bring back some espresso." Apparently he's a CoffeeGeek Podcast listener and is always looking for great coffee.

So "friend in Iowa", I hope you enjoy the espresso,
and Thanks.

New Syphon (siphon, Vac Pot...)

2008-04-05T18:44:00.003-06:00

I received a package from overseas yesterday.
I am testing some new coffee syphon, a 3 cup and the awesome 2 cup.
So far they are working well. I am looking for exclusivity, so I'm being fairly rough with them. I will run some more rigorous tests, but it looks like we may have a winner.

SHOP caffe d'bolla -- online store

2008-03-31T19:05:00.000-06:00

Our online store is up and running!

There may be a few minor bugs here and there. Please be patient as we continue to update more products and merchandise. The coffee and tea selections may change often depending on current stock, and what crop is coming in.

As of now all payments are secure through PayPal, and Credit Card processing will be added in the very near future.

Saddle Up!

2008-03-29T18:31:00.003-06:00

This afternoon a GEN-U-INE cowboy complete with chaps, grizzled weathered skin, authentic hat, and good-natured, if not a bit rough, charm.

He was in from Montana on a visit to the hospital at the University. He had black coffee written all over his worn boots. Well... I was wrong he had "twelve ounce latte with an extra shot" written all over his dark sunglasses.

He was hanging outside to wait for his friend who had "wandered up to the Subway to grab him a sandwich". He comes back in and says, "That was some damn fine coffee. I'll have another."

His friend, looking too much like Mad Jack from Grizzly Adams, showed up and they proceeded to ask about our mugs for sale. Well the Cowboy's eyes lit up when he spotted his prize. "I've looked all over Billings and Great Falls and couldn't find one of these." He brought his demitasse up to the counter and said, "now I have a proper espresso cup."

Awesome.

The Jesus Principle, Coffee, and the Truth of Recession

2008-03-25T18:06:00.011-06:00

No, not the mythical religious icon....

Jesus, as is (hey-soos) [real name unknown] is a former veteran who's lost most touch with reality and is a semi-transient artist who has been coming to our caffe off and on since our opening year.

Much can be learned about the truth of recession and how it relates to discretionary, or luxury, spending when you examine Jesus.

Jesus does not have a lot of discretionary income, in fact, he has little income at all. He receives a monthly check from the government, but most of his time is spent walking about talking complete nonsense and occasionally selling hand drawn artwork at the park for about three to ten bucks a drawing.

Compare Jesus to the overspending Yuppie or general young idiot. You have someone with a livable income who has spent well outside their means. Luxury items to them may not be a big deal, but the house they couldn't afford is, as well as their other mis-management of money habits.

Jesus has a usual routine: He quietly mumbles his order, an Americano--16 ounce, and sometimes gets two while he sits out on the patio and draws, mumbles about people chasing him with electric griddles (I kid you not!), or both.

He could walk anywhere and get a cup for a buck fifty or less, but with his limited resources he comes here. And as someone else was standing in line asking about the Americano, he brazenly mumbled, "best coffee in the city".

Those who have less, spend it more thoughtfully, and actually they increase the luxury, but decrease the frequency. Recession. Bullshit. For those who have little money, spend wisely, like Jesus.

Testing Rwanda Kinunu Bourbon

2008-03-25T17:02:00.003-06:00

I roasted a new coffee for the siphon coffee this morning. It's a 100% Bourbon from Rwanda. I haven't had Rwandan coffee before, but this is very good. It has some Kenyan elements coupled with African spice notes, somewhere between a good Sidamo and a Ugandan coffee.

At a City roast, this particular coffee has some really nice light sweet citrus flavors, and some lingering --- {side note, the cappuccino I'm having right now is fan-fucking-tastic}-- clove and sweet spice notes.

Testing new coffees is great.

I'm looking over...

2008-03-24T20:09:00.003-06:00

...too many posts about Clover.

I see the whole Clover flap as "much ado about nothing". For those who consider themselves Third Wave or artisan or just about the coffee...
We've all positioned ourselves ahead of Starbucks of this world and it's a shame that some believe we need to "rediscover" our coffee roots. Isn't daily discovery and exploration of coffee what we preach. Whether you brew with press or Chemex or siphon or Melitta or even Clover...just keep doing what you're doing. And if you haven't been doing it, what are you waiting for?

Online Store

2008-03-16T11:29:00.003-06:00

While our website for the caffe is being rebuilt from the ground up, I have created an ebay store for the online purchase of our coffees. In the future we will have a seamless integration between website and e-commerce.

Just head to our website and click on the "SHOP caffe d'bolla"

Conventional Bulk Auto Drip or Americano: Why?

2008-03-16T10:59:00.010-06:00

The question has been posed on the Specialty Coffee forums about whether to only offer Americanos or to offer brewed coffee.

For most operators, the term "brewed coffee" refers to conventional bulk auto drip coffee. And to this question I said that only "you" can decide. But is it necessary? The answer would be a definitive "no."

In an earlier post I commented on stealing a customer by offering our Americano as an improvement, not as a replacement.

Coffee is great, but conventional auto drip is not warranted for the best of coffees and is not the best method for highlighting the dynamic flavors of the coffee. Brewing methods such as Chemex, press pot, siphon, hand drip (Melitta)... are better methods -if done correctly- for coffee brewing because they require more attention to detail and the attention and focus translates more "love" into the cup.

We saw everyone doing "drip" and everywhere, and I mean everywhere we went it was from "not bad" to "yuck!". Nothing was excellent. Caffe Vivace in Seattle was the standard bearer for "we only do espresso" and that is the model used for the first year and a half until we began to offer Single Origin press to order coffee and now, Single Origin siphon brewed coffee.

The properly brewed Americano is superior in flavor and body to conventional drip. It's really not even a close contest, but because of the poor espresso of the vast majority of shops, their Americano will follow suit. It's not the drink, it's the quality of the beans and the barista, or PBTC, preparing it.

So if you're looking for a replacement for conventional drip, I don't know what to tell you. But if you're looking for something superior, try a fresh ground, fresh brewed Americano.

Killer B espresso

2008-03-05T16:00:00.004-07:00

I've been toying with the idea for another espresso, and I decided to be traditionally untraditional. I've selected three excellent Brazilian coffees from the Cerrado Region, and roasted each separately at different levels, and then combined post roast.

Lots of smooth body. Complex chocolate, nut and spice notes, with a hint of cherry and pulped fruit.

Great in cappuccino.

Available in pound or half pound.

Hand-Roasted. Perfect Brewed. By the Cup.

2008-01-06T00:50:00.000-07:00

After returning from an eight day trip of fun and exploration in Japan, once again, I am amazed by the level of quality in the independent shop hiding in the streets of Japan. For many shops, "hand-roasted" coffee is the norm, and although only a few shops have an offering list that goes beyond the norm, what they do with their coffee produces fantastic results.

My wife, Yiching, spent many hours searching out and locating good coffee houses for us to try and while there were not any outright disappointments, there were some revelations and quite a few winners. And they were winners for the same reason quality shops here are: Quality fresh roasted coffee, and an understanding and control of the brewing process.

I will make a longer post later regarding the various shops, but the winner of the trip was a small coffee bar called "Rivage" in Osaka. Fresh Roasted coffee, weighed and fresh ground for each cup, fresh brewed with precise timing and flame control using siphon (vacuum) brewers. Yiching and I had four cups between us, all were excellent. The thing that stuck out the most for me was the weighing of beans, and after tasting the cup (in comparison to other shops) knowing that the barista understood the proper grind to bring out the flavor, rather than just having a grinder and tossing the beans in and returning a poor result due to an incorrect grind. The more control over the cup, from bean to barista, the better the cup... and it's proved accurate everywhere I've been.

I'm looking forward to the upcoming changes in the caffe, and the continued challenge of making each cup better than the last.

Art and Science of Coffee

2007-12-13T16:16:00.000-07:00

We have been fortunate to be highlighted again in a recent article on the Selective Echo.

We will soon be launching an online store, so keep your eyes peeled.

A New Look

2007-11-26T20:42:00.000-07:00

We will be remodeling the caffe in three phases. Phase one consists of tearing down our existing roasting room and building a new roasting area in the back.

The new roasting area will be 16 feet in length and about 4'8" wide, with lots of glass. Two six by six foot windows and a glass front door inside a sleek stained-black wood frame will put a definite stamp on this upgrade, and make a great showcase for our new roaster.

I will post pictures as it progresses.

Framing should be up tomorrow. These guys are awesome.

Thoughts on Coffee Education

2007-11-18T10:28:00.000-07:00

I've been thinking about how to best get "Joe Consumer" to understand the difference between what we're offering in terms of coffee and what others are offering. A simple solution not yet easily executed due to time and space issues would be a cupping class or a coffee tasting. Barring that, it's getting them to take that first sip, be it Americano, press pot coffee, latte or cappuccino without a thought of adulterating it with any foreign bovine substances or sweeteners, whether natural or artificial.

You can educate only so far with stories, perfect coffee descriptions, and beautiful pictures; the palate is the key to a lasting impression.

If Joe only knew what he was missing.

Thoughts on Single Origin Espresso

2007-11-09T14:49:00.000-07:00

There's been a lot of industry talk these past few years over Single Origin Espresso. And it's continued with James Hoffman taking the title with the use of two different SO's at the 2007 WBC in Japan. So is espresso being re-defined, or is this something akin to espresso that is merely extracted in the same fashion?

We can beat the nomenclature to death debating whether Single Origin refers to three El Salvadoran beans, El Salvadoran beans from the same region, or one single El Salvadoran bean, consisting of one cultivar, from one farm. Loosely defined, we could say you have a lot of X beans that come from one country of Origin-- El Salvador. These El Salvadoran beans have not been blended with anything, and you don't blend them with anything after receiving them. In other words, we can generally suppose it's self-evident in the description. Unnecessary rambling I'm sure.

Just because I blend a few beans together, roast them, grind them, stuff them in a portafilter, etc, the resulting brew may be espresso, it may be just horrid espresso, or it may not be espresso at all. I'm not of the camp that believes all espresso needs to have a bit of Robusta in it, but I believe there are certain elements an espresso must have. First, it needs to have complexity. There should either be a layering, a blending or a merging of different flavors. Second, there should be recognizable crema that blankets the tongue, gives body to the drink and from which you can gather a nice aroma before drinking -- if you so desire. Lastly, espresso should have persistence of flavor. There should be a pleasant lingering element that stays with you. And to me, whether this is lingering on the tongue, or lingering on your mind because the shot blew you away is ok in my book. It is these same elements that should exist for a bean to cross the Single Origin espresso threshold.

Single Origin espresso should still be about crafting a good espresso, with dynamic and complex flavors, good body, mouthfeel, crema, and a persistence of flavor. These are the things you should look for when examining beans and pulling shots. Ask youself, what is it missing? If the answer is "nothing" then you may have stumbled upon a great Single Origin espresso.

My two beans.

Tasting Notes - Panama Carmen Estate

2007-11-07T19:10:00.001-07:00

I have been enjoying this coffee for about six days now, and it still ranks as one of my favorite coffees. This particular lot is a from micro-lot picked from only 1800 meters and above. As the internal sugars in the bean increase with every hundred meters in elevation, this is a sweet and pristine cup.

Almost crystalline in clarity, distinct vanilla, peach, and a sweet cherry tone throughout. A nutty and smooth body lends to a pleasurable cup.

When I brew this particular coffee, I look to a finer grind and a steep time of about three minutes in the press pot. It's a remarkable tasting journey and a highly recommended coffee even first day out of the roaster. You'll be amazed.

The Market Gap

2007-11-06T19:06:00.001-07:00

Understanding The Market Gap is what comprises our capacity for long-term success and continued growth.

[This is a simple posting about a very complex issue, but for those of you who understand marketing, innovation, differentiation--these sorts of issues-- will have no problem reading between the lines and filling in your own gaps.]

At the beginning of each project, we ask ourselves these questions:

1) Where is there a gap in the market?
2) How do we fill that gap, and furthermore, how do we differentiate within that gap?

In a greater sense it's about differentiation, but that in itself is nothing but a meaningless term-- as are many marketing principles. The key to the solution of solving this particular Market Gap was easy.

The market as a whole is comprised of two distinct tracks. The first track is comprised of the Chains--the Starbucks, Tully's, Caribou, Dunkin' Donuts, etc. of the world. The second track consists of Those Who Insist They Are Different (but really aren't) the "Indies". Most of the independents are a rehashing of the Starbucks menu--including sizing, blended frappa-crappa drinks and the like. The only difference is an insistence of better product but a result of greater inconsistency.

Where's the Gap? Quality.

What's our differentiation within the Gap? One cup at a time. And a relentless and continuous pursuit of Knowledge of Quality and its immediate implementation.

For our purposes, Quality can be defined as, "Sourcing quality ingredients, utilizing quality knowledge and training, and producing a quality product every time." This is a standard held by many top caffe, top restaurants, and other top businesses.
There are differences in each company's level of knowledge as to the answers to these questions:

* Within our industry, what is the standard of quality?

* Is our standard of quality higher, lower, or on par with the industry?

* What empirical proof do we have of our standard?

* Does the market dictate our standard or do we dictate our standard?

* Does our level of standard stay the same (i.e. repackaging old as new)?

* Does our level of standard lower in order to cater to the Lowest Common Denominator?

* Does our level of standard continuously change as our Knowledge of Quality changes?

It is this final question and a resulting answer of "yes" that leads us to the heart of our differentiation, and this does not only apply to us, but to every business that pushes itself to the forefront and quietly leads by an aggressive qualitative approach rather than an aggressive quantitative approach.

(in our case) Whether it's an espresso, or a (press) cup of Single Origin coffee, or a latte, or a hot tea, or an iced tea, or a bubble tea, or a chai, etc. it's all by the cup. No bulk drip coffee, no press done pots at a time--everything is by the cup.

Of course this approach puts us as a sliver within the Gap, but with deep penetration. But the main factor that gives us certainty of long term viability is a continuous search for knowledge and its immediate implementation. This is a concept which extends to our other pursuits as well and will be clear in our future endeavors.

Ask yourself these questions?

* How can we make our X better?
With our example, X can be (our espresso, our coffee roasting, our tea containers, our store layout, our internal marketing, our external marketing, our hot chocolate, our bubble tea, our gelato, etc.

* What can we learn from the best in the field (in terms of Quality)?
Know who the top players in your field are and study what they are doing. Pick their brain, speak their language, and break down their years of knowledge into months of hard work.

* What can we do to improve upon what they are doing?

* What is the best thing they do? Can we do it? Can we improve it?

* What is the second best thing they do?...

* What new thing can I learn today?

Whether you learn about proper heel placement and body-weight shifting during a tenkan kotegaeshi, the perfect sesame cold noodle, how to train your dog, the difference between coffee A at temperature X vs. temperature Y, the best day to water your flower garden, etc. The more you know, the more you are exposed to, the more you understand, the more your mind can relate things together that are seemingly unrelatable. Genius and inspiration often occur when we least expect it. It is when are minds are at rest that everything can come together. So while you're not thinking about much, there's sure to be a lot stirring around in that head of yours. But if there's nothing in the pot, all you'll end up with is a wet spoon.

Understand the Market Gap for YOUR particular industry, and how you answer that question will be the defining concept of your entire business. Do it right knowing that improvement by innovation and quality will always lead to long term success.

Tasting Notes - Organic DP Ethiopian Sidamo Special Selection -- Tasting Notes

2007-10-30T19:02:00.001-06:00

I played around with this coffee for a while and decided to try it at as a blend at three different roast levels. I'm getting blueberry and cherry skins right off the top with a bittersweet spice not throughout the cup. Chocolates here and there, but it's as if the spice notes morph into chocolate and the chocolate morphs into spice.

My current batch was roasted on the 26th of October, and is coming along very well in the cup.

A Thousand Words

2007-10-27T20:45:00.001-06:00

Les Roka, PR denizen and writer of pithy and poignant prose, and I often discuss the merits (or lack thereof) of the many ads in the local City Weekly dining section. As he clearly pointed out during one such conversation, "The quality of the business can be seen by the quality of the ad."

The often cited phrase, "a picture is worth a thousand words" gives us a good indication that much can be learned by looking at various ads and asking ourselves some questions. In my opinion, the key factors when looking at an ad are the Design and the Offer.

The aspect of Design covers several issues and asks several questions:
Is there Is there a good use of white space? Is it distinctive? Is a location easily identified? Is there a clear target? Is the logo professional? just to name a few.

On the aspect of the Offer we can ask:
Is there a clear offer? Does the offer raise or lower the value of the product? Does the offer speak of desparation--increase short term sales? Does the offer speak to position and brand--increase long term sales? Is there a clear target?

DESIGN

Clear Headline:
The headline can be actual text, or it can be a picture, but this should define and differentiate this particular business from all other businesses.

Correct Use of Fonts:
At most, two fonts. One for the headline, and all other text being one font. Multiple fonts, multiple sizes too confusing on the paper. Shows a business with no focus, this will carry through their entire operation.

Balance:
Is the ad balanced? Left/right? Text vs. Visuals? Whitespace vs. ...

Location:
Physical location of the store/restaurant/shop should be clearly indicated.

Target:

Does the ad target a specific niche? Does it have a clear message? Is there evident positioning going on?

Professional Logo:

Is the logo a clear indication of the business? Does it work in black and white? Does it work in color? Does it work large? Does it work small? Is it too busy? Is it "good artwork" but not a good logo?

OFFER:

Is there a clear offer? The offer could be something easily tangible such as a coupon (usually BAD choice) or the offer could be an experience, such as "excellence" or "Authentic Mexican", etc.

Does the offer raise or lower the value of the product?

Coupons, BOGO, and the like (with the exception of NEW offerings during opening) Always devalue the product.

Is the offer desparate?

Often Coupons, BOGO, and the like show panic or loss of business. The business, not understanding the dynamics of long term sustainability, choose to reap short term windfalls in place of establishing a long term customer base.

Does the establish position and promote the brand?

An offer of "traditional Japanese fare" will establish a position and build the brand.
An offer of "2 for 1 Dinner Entree" will also establish a position and build (negatively) a brand.

Target?

Who does the offer target? An offer in terms of "a good deal" is clearly a different audience that an offer that appeals to quality, authentic XX, ambiance, etc.
Those who coupon shop are a different category, their only loyalty is to their very tight wallets and if a business promotes itself via coupon, BOGO, and the like, then this is who they are appealing to. The notion that customers through the door equals long term dollars is an illusion that will be the downfall of many a poor business owner.

Ads don't always translate to immediate sales. Sometimes an ad exists to establish position and build brand on a long term basis, and while a quick fix is sometimes tempting, it can often leave the business owner with an empty business, and emptier pockets. So if you take the time to study the ads in your local weekly paper, ask yourself the above questions and check out a few of the businesses; soon you will understand that a while a picture is worth a thousand words, an ad speaks volumes.

Doing the Mambo

2007-10-05T18:00:00.000-06:00

I've been offering the Mountain Mambo both in the caffe and for sale for the past few weeks now. I am looking to soon upgrade my roaster so I can offer our espresso to a larger audience of coffee lovers and espresso fanatics.

The journey for the Mambo was a difficult one taking no less than thirty-three variations of beans, ratios, roast levels, etc. The biggest hurdle for me was sourcing. Since we are small, buying pallet loads of coffee isn't feasible at this time, so finding great components that I can source on a consistent basis that produce the flavor characteristics I was looking for was a lengthy task. The good thing is that all of this trial and error has sharpened my blending and roasting skills and allowed me to see the potential and the growth I have yet to reach.

The Mambo is always a never-ending work in progress as I seek to understand each bean better and how the flavors complement each other. I have done my best to create an espresso that works well both as espresso and in milk, but I want something you can have any time of the day and be comfortable with it. I am most appreciative of the reception the Mambo has received thus far, but there's still a lot of work to be done.

As I sit here sipping a cup of Guatemala Finca San Jose I remind myself to continue learning from those who inspire me and hope that I can inspire others.

To good coffee!

Observations on Failure and Success

2007-09-27T19:03:00.001-06:00

After watching most of the BBC version and the first two shows of the US version of Gordon Ramsay's "Kitchen Nightmares," it is easy to see why so many in the foodservice business, be it a restaurant or a coffee shop, fail. Not including location and lack of capital, which are often two of the primary business killers, I want to look at those things that are overlooked but often prove to be the death nail.

Lack of Preparation Before Opening: This is the time to do serious homework. You need to do everything including flow in the kitchen, color and size of plates, where will you source your products--have you tested all of these products... How will you price? Why will you price? What is on the menu? Is everyone trained?, Who is your target? Is the menu developed to attract that target? What type of external marketing will you do? What type of internal marketing will you do? And hundreds of other things.

Too Complex: Menus with too many selections. If your customers take fifteen minutes just to read the menu, they will probably get bored or confused.

No Leadership: Poor management and/or lack of leadership. This is 100% fault of the ownership.

Lack of Detail: This goes in conjunction with Lack of Preparation. Once you have opened, it's understanding those little details that make the difference. Is all the food going out at the same time? Is it all hot? Is there crema on your Americano? Are you testing your shots daily? Do you put latte art on all latte? Are your plates clean, etc. Details.

These problems are both universal and easy to remedy, but you have to have the will to do it. Success is not a byproduct of passion and the fact that you love something doesn't mean you will be good at it. Understanding the reasons for business failure is one way to assure your competitive edge and move beyond mere survival.

Do you have what it takes?

The Concept of "Firing Customers"

2007-09-25T17:00:00.000-06:00

In "Lessons in Excellence from Charlie Trotter,(pp195-196)" Paul Clarke writes,

"After you pick your customers by carefully targeting a relatively homogeneous market, it's time to narrow the market further. More than likely, some customers aren't right for your business, particularly if your is an enterprise that attempts to offer customers truly distinctive products or services. So get rid of customers who aren't right. This contemporary and somewhat unconventional business practice is known as "firing customers."

"If you want to make your business better sometimes, it's not always a question of trying to make every customer happy," explains Trotter. "Maybe it's better to fire certain segments of your customer base to make what you do even better for your best customers."
...

Why would any business want to get rid of paying customers? For one thing, your product, company, or service is defined not only by its features, uses, and benefits, but also by its customers or users. Also, in service businesses, certain customers--for example, smokers or young children--could alienate your best customers. Most important, the objective of firing is not simply to get rid of certain customers, but to fine-tune the product or the marketing message for your target market."

It is important for each of us to designate our position in the market and craft our entire business philosophy from product quality to quality of service to reflect that. This is something that we have been doing since day one, and while this is foreign to many in our industry --trust me, I've seen their ideas of "marketing"-- it is an important lesson that we can learn from one of the greats in the service industry.

This idea of "firing customers" is more evolved in European, and to some degree, Asian countries. The faulty logic that too many in our industry have is that a "customer" is anyone with a couple of bucks who walks through the door and orders a drink. Those who understand market positioning, and dominating that position will tell you that in order to define your market, you have to create a culture of excellence where the customer seeks your expertise, rather than questions it.

If the industry is to evolve, you should not be afraid to "fire" customers from time to time...BUT to do so without understanding and defining your place in the market will be perilous.

The Wizardry of Great Coffee

2007-09-21T20:20:00.000-06:00

Correct Roast.
Correct Grind.
Correct Temperature.
Complete Saturation.
Correct Brew Time.

These are elements that must all come together to produce a cup that will mesmerize your tastebuds. If any of these aspects is off you will end up with something amiss in your cup.

Lately, I have been experimenting with vacuum (siphon) coffee brewing and concentrating on the perfection of this brewing method. What looks like a crazy experiment put on by "Mr. Wizard" is one of the best methods for brewing coffee.

After the water approaches boiling in the bottom chamber it begins to create water vapor, which having nowhere else to go, seeks to expand within the confined space and pushes the liquid into the top chamber. The liquid cools slightly while in the top chamber and the continual expansion and condensation of the gas in the lower chamber creates a slightly fluctuating pressure which results in a turbulence in the top chamber. This turbulence, although it looks like boiling water, is not, and I suspect it is one of the primary reasons you can use a short steep/brew time, yet still extract amazing flavors in the cup.

A good butane burner with an adjustable flame will allow you to precisely control the brewing temperature, so rather than a declining temperature, you can maintain a flat line temperature--much like that done in the Synesso Cyncra and Lamarzocco GB5 espresso machines. The theory being that a flat line temperature can more easily extract consistent flavors every time and the ability to adjust the temperature by raising or lowering the flame allows to you find the 'sweet spot' for your particular coffee at hand.

The siphon brewer does its best highlighting the complex, flavorful and bright coffees, and it tends to bring transparency to the deeper flavors. It's like cupping on steroids because once you understand your brew temperature you are given the gift of a multi-dimensional cup that sings with complexity, yet displays an undeniable clarity in each progressive sip.

I will be seeking out several siphon shops in Japan during our visit this December, such as Hanafusa, the first siphon shop in Kyoto.

But until then, I will continue to conjour up some magical brews.

The Dog Whisperer?

2007-09-17T20:24:00.001-06:00

This past Saturday, a boy stopped in to get some water for his dog. I happily filled the dish for him and asked if he was driving. He said he was "out" and they needed to stop. I thought well of someone taking care of their dog while out walking, but nothing more of it after that.

About a half-hour later, Tim, from the record shop next door, said, "Do you know who the dog outside belongs to?" Apparently they had stopped to eat upstairs.
"Uh... a boy..Why?"
"He's not letting people past!"

I went outside to assess the situation. Nice looking lab mix hooked to the far end of the patio growling and barking at anyone approaching. He seemed more scared and confused then anything, but I had a line of customers to attend to, so I said, "I'll be back." And went in to take care of our customers.

After going back out, the dog looked and quietly growled but did not bark. I walked right up to him and stopped, letting him approach me. He continued to growl slightly and I stepped forward and pointed at him, "Quiet! Down!" He took a step backward and after a moment of hesitation, flopped down. I immediately patted his head and scratched his ears. At this time someone was walking by, and although he now felt safe with me, he still had on his mind "stranger!" and he jumped up and barked at the passerby. I grabbed his mouth and sternly looked at him and he calmed down. Right then, about seven or eight people came out through the doorway and he quietly lay there absorbing it all. Once he understood it was a safe environment, he was content. About an hour later, the girlfriend of the owner came downstairs and I told her of the incident. "He's such a big teddy bear," she said.
He was, he just needed someone to reassure him for a moment.

I Have Two Pea...

2007-09-14T16:24:00.000-06:00

...Berry coffee.

I have FIVE new coffee offerings, two of which are unique peaberries.

First on the list is a Nicaragua Matagalpa, which is both of the Pacamara cultivar, and a peaberry. Sweet and smokey, like from a good barbecue. Spicy notes with pulped fruits tobacco, and a hint of pepper at the finish. This is worth two or three cups just for the hell of it.

Second is an extremely rare Sumatra Blue Batak peaberry. This Sumatran hails from the Lake Toba region, where the indiginous Batak people work the coffee. Unlike the heavy and earthy tones one is familiar with in a Sumatran, this coffee has a bright, slightly winey sweetness that carries through the cup. A raw sugar and cinnamon note surround this sweetness that ends with a lingering spice note. An unusual and remarkable Sumatran.

I'll key you in on the next three coffees after the weekend.

An Bean-O-Riffic Extravaganza

2007-09-11T18:32:00.001-06:00

I'm awaiting a shipment of five new coffees this week. I'm particularly looking forward to a Sumatran "Batak" peaberry. So stay tuned and I'll be posting some new offerings on our caffe website as well.

Salt Lake City's Cosmopolitan Best

2007-09-09T15:59:00.000-06:00

An article, "caffe d'bolla - consistent proof that what's in the cup really counts" by Les Roka on his professional blog, The Selective Echo, states it ever so clearly, "[caffe d'bolla] has become the city’s indisputable center for specialty coffee and tea and often the city’s only source for farm-specific coffee varieties of exceptional quality."

As I sit here, roasting a new batch of Mountain Mambo espresso, I flex my fingers in anticipation at what the future holds. Stay tuned, we're only going to get better.

The Cart Before the Horse

2007-07-23T18:10:00.000-06:00

Another coffee shop has succumbed to the Reaper, now while it is a wholly unfortunate thing, it was easily foreseeable once their primary marketing scheme was revealed. The death was easily predictable once coupons and BOGO were used as their method(s) of promotion.

Any reputable marketer will tell you, and all the market research bears this out, that coupons/discount marketing is not only the worst form of marketing, but it does more harm than good.
In terms of marketing we want to:
1) Establish a niche or 'position'
2) Increase our customer base
3) Increase awareness of the #1
4) Increase long term revenue

Here are the obvious problems with discount marketing.
1) Establishes your business as a 'discount' business-- one not capable of having products worthy of the full price.
2) Increases number of people wanting something "FREE" does not increase PAYING customer base. In fact, it decreases paying customer base because it erodes their confidence in your product.
3) Discount marketing does reaffirm to everyone that the particular business is failing or has positioned themselves with the mindset of failure.
4) The decrease in paying customers and the increase in non-paying/discount customers leads to an easily predictable decrease in revenue.

But then WHY do so many local/small businesses have such a poor understanding of marketing? Most people want an easy fix, they want to be the Day Trader or the lottery winner. This is business folly. So before you put the gimmick before the quality of your product, Beware! A picture paints a thousand words, eh?

Too Acidic

2007-07-21T18:50:00.001-06:00

I completed testing an espresso roast I did a few days back and it has come out too acidic. An obvious bit of improper temp/ under roasting on one of my primary beans. While this sucks ass, I'm glad to have caught the problem and was able to roast again this morning. It's a learning experience, but something I hope I will not repeat.

Seattle caffe crawl -- July 07

2007-07-10T18:47:00.000-06:00

Yiching and I went to Seattle this past weekend to relax and have fun for our six year anniversary. We managed to hit the following places:

For coffee we hit:
Victrola (on Pike):

Victrola's espresso was nicely pulled on a three group Synesso.

The shot seemed to be pulled ristretto, had a twinge of sharp, but well-balanced acidity in the beginning, and some kind of fruit note in the finish.

The latte definitely possessed the cleanest art on the trip. It was smooth, and the espresso carried through well. Not certain it would work if you wanted too large a drink, but I guess that's also good. I also ordered a traditional five ounce cappa.

This picture was taken a few minutes after because I got caught up chatting with the barista. My question would be: In a place of Victrola's caliber, why have an 8 0z cappuccino/latte AND a traditional 5 oz. cappa? A cappuccino is a cappuccino, 5-6 oz. There is no need to distinguish and make one for the masses. Step up boys! Victrola rocks, but lay down the law!

I spent some time talking with Keith, their roaster, and he gave me a tour of the Diedrich. Keith knows his craft pretty well. Kudos to Keith. In a nutshell, Victrola was probably the best overall combination of drinks and ambiance. I will definitely return.

Our second stop was a late night visit to Caffe Vivace at Alley 24, by the REI. As always consistent art

I had ordered a caramel latte because Vivace's espresso tends to blend well with the caramel, and it did this time too. However, the latte that Yiching got on this trip was definitely off.

It had ashy notes and a bland finish possibly due to coffee oils. I think the portafilter had not yet been cleaned following the last rush. So this time, Vivace did not have a stellar performance.

Saturday was a longer haul. We hit Lighthouse, Seven, and Zoka thanks to good usage of the Metro trip planner and a decent bus system. Except for the damn long wait to catch a connection from Seven to Zoka, it went off without any problems.
Here's my report.

Lighthouse was our first stop of the day. Lighthouse is located in more of a residential area and perfectly fits in to the surroundings.

I had a cappuccino and an almond pastry.

The cappuccino was served traditionally, monk's cap and all, and this is the way I prefer my cappuccino. Sweet thick foam blending perfectly into a nice base of milk and espresso. Balanced. Tasty.
Yiching had a small latte, which was nicely presented in a tumbler, and a chocolate pastry.

The latte was 'comfortable'. It was pleasant, didn't grab your attention with unnecessary flavors. A latte you can have morning or late night. For this trip, Lighthouse had the most balanced, best tasting drinks. But the vibe at Victrola nudges them slightly ahead in the overall picture.

Seven Coffee Roasters is an interesting little shop hidden out around the corner from Pete's Eggnest on 78th N and Greenwood.

This shop is minimalist to the core, and the owner, Sean Lee has done a fantastic job sticking to the core essentials. A Lamarzocco Linea, a couple of Rio Grinders, and a handmade rack for by the cup filtered coffee are all that adorn the front of his cement topped counters.

My wife ordered a small latte,

and I had a (pourover) cup of the Guatemala.

The Guatemala was nice and crisp, vanilla, and hint of caramel nuttiness. The latte was smooth, tasty, lacked a little definition through the cup. I also had an espresso (not pictured--lost). The espresso was good, crisp, clean, and possessed a nice flavor, but seemed to lack complexity and depth. I have made this same and many similar profiles in my own roasting journey, and it's all part of the learning curve. Sean definitely will get it down pat, he seems to be a perfectionist at heart, so it can only get better with each successive batch. Seven Coffee Roasters is a definite up and comer and worth checking out.

Zoka was our final caffe for the day. I really need another visit as I was highly tweaking on caffeine by the time we reached Zoka, but nonetheless, here is my report.

Zoka is BIG.

I ordered a Clover brewed CoE coffee.

I was ready for the Clover experience! And I was sorely disappointed. Perhaps it wasn't dialed in right, but outside of it having having good body and a hint of honeyness to it, it did not present and noticeable or outstanding flavor nuances. I preferred the flavors from Seven's Guatemala. Clover? Is it fantastic? The jury is still out, but definitely a "so-so" on that cup. And as it was getting to be the hotter part of the afternoon, Yiching ordered an iced latte.

Iced latte was nice. Hard to say.
I would like to give Zoka another crack when I am less heavily caffeinated. Great looking spot. Barista seem to do everything right. Too many laptops.

Another new place I wanted to check out was Seattle Espresso Works, which we managed to hit on our last day this trip. Seattle Espresso Works is a good concept where they utilize several different local roasteries, and can brew the espresso side by side on a three group Synesso, and you can taste the difference between the various espresso.
The long and short of it-- great concept, they don't come anywhere close to pulling it off. While the Sengware ceramic cups were nice looking,

the espresso on the latte was sharp, probably underextracted and/or at the wrong brew temperature, cappuccino was drinkable, but that's the best compliment I can give it. Glad I didn't try the straight espresso.
So for our Seattle Caffe crawl July '07, based on overall experience, reputation, and meeting or exceeding that reputation, I would say it was Victrola by a hair, followed by Lighthouse, Seven, Zoka and Vivace, and finally, in a very distant sixth place, Espresso Works.

I'll be tackling the restaurant reviews this weekend.

Mountain Mambo Espresso

2007-05-16T17:37:00.000-06:00

I am proud to announce caffe d'bolla has a new espresso blend.

Mountain Mambo espresso is a 100% arabica blend of three different beans. It begins with a light Meyer lemon followed by a smooth nut and spice middle with a muted fruit and nut finish. To ensure quality we proudly offer whole bean only.

Recommended brewing parameters are ~9 BAR @ 199 degrees and a 27 second extraction. Crema should be thick, dark golden brown. 1.5 ounce double will highlight the deeper fruit and nut tones. a 2 ounce double will produce a brighter cup.

Currently any online orders are roasted on Sundays and shipped Monday or Tuesday to ensure freshness. This espresso is not ready to use until four days after roasting.
Please contact me at [caffedbolla AT yahoo.com] if you wish to place an order.

The Uninitiated Customer

2007-04-24T18:07:00.000-06:00

New customers are great. But not all new customers are created equal. Some have had the unfortunate problem of frequenting the typical chain store or the "I serve shit in a cup and call it coffee" independant store. I am glad that most new customers do not fall into this category, but here is a hypothetical, but somewhat illustrative morning. While word has spread that we are 'all about the coffee' some people still need to be educated, and for the most part, it's awesome having the opportunity to do so.

New Customer:....."Uh... I'd like a coffee."
AikiBarista:......"We don't do drip coffee, but I can make you an excellent Americano."

Customer:........"Americano, no room."

New Customer: "Can I have a Grande blended Mocha?"
AikiBarista: "I can make you a really good iced mocha, we don't do blended drinks."

Customer:........"Small mocha. Can you make one of those flowers on the top?"

New Customer: "Sixteen ounce cappuccino."
AikiBarista: "We do traditional cappuccino, six ounces...."

Customer:........"cappuccino."

New Customer: "Can I have a 24 ounce caramel macchiatto?"
Aikibarista: "?????"

Customer........"Macchiatto..... and how about a shot of espresso as well."

The frequency of people asking for drip or blended drinks or twenty ounce hot anything (only 12 and 16 here) has almost reached a point of zero. I'm happy that we are doing our part to educate the coffee community. One cup at a time baby, one cup at a time.

Good Results

2006-12-23T17:15:00.000-07:00

The new espresso blend has had excellent results so far. Originally roasted on the 13th of December, the body, flavor, and crema have all been wonderful. I only have enough for one shot left, but I will wait until the end of day to pull that.

semi-sweet chocolate, dried fruit notes, and a sweet finish.
More details later, but once it's ready to go, I will be including recommended brewing parameters with it as well.

Finalizing Espresso Blend

2006-12-14T18:12:00.000-07:00

I've been working off and on for several months on a new espresso blend. I've been trying to source beans more directly and create something that both maintains high standards, yet is accessible ingredient (bean) wise.
I like an espresso to be able to work well as a shot, or in a cappuccino or latte. It needs to have a good mouthfeel, and there should be something memorable about it.
This is not always an easy task--hence (wtf?) the several months.

I think I have finally hit what I am looking for in these initial testing phases. If I can duplicate the roast with the same results, then we'll have a winner. I should know before the Holidays.

NWRBC - Congrats Billy

2006-10-23T19:17:00.000-06:00

Billy Wilson took first place in this years North West Regional Barista Championship.
http://www.nwbarista.com/

Congrats to all!
1. Billy Wilson
2. Jon Lewis
3. Kevin Fuller

Organic Guatamalen Coban

2006-10-23T19:14:00.000-06:00

I roasted some of this wonderful coffee on Saturday for my good friend Nobu.
I just finished having a cup. Oishii!

Finca El Injerto

2006-10-23T19:12:00.000-06:00

One of our customers, now living in Portland, brought ne some of Stumpie's Guatamalen Finca El Injerto. Even at 7 days, it makes an awesome cup.
Thanks Mike!

Decaf Macchiatto

2006-10-07T21:29:00.000-06:00

We have a new customer--just came into town a couple of weeks ago. He comes in twice a day, before and after work, for a decaf macchiatto.
He enjoys his macchiatto, works on his computer a bit, thanks us, and is on his way until the next day.
Cool.

A Foundation of Excellence

2006-10-05T15:37:00.001-06:00

David Schomer wrote in his 1996 article "Creating a Culture of Excellence",
"...We push and pull each other into better, more consistent performance as the cusine advances. Each person is totally excited to do his or her absolute best."
and he echoes this thought in his 2001 article "How to Compete with Starbucks", where he wraps up by writing,
"Soul alone is not enough. It is really the focus on espresso excellence and personal, intelligent service that is the edge over the big corporation, provided the independent can do everything as professionally as the big boys do it. Starbucks is a wake-up call to those dabblers that think the coffee business is easy and I say that is good. We do not want to go the way of the yogurt shops of the eighties. They will force us to create a culture of espresso excellence to survive."

The sad fact is, that while many complain about the problems with Starbucks, they seek only to become an imitation of Starbucks, and expect people to love them because they are a 'local' or 'independent' imitation, instead of focusing on creating excellence. There's always a lot of talk about 'we do quality this' and 'we train all of our barista,' etc., but when you actually find out what many of these shops are doing, the sad reality is they are creating an appearance of excellence with no excellence at their core.

Excellence begins with the heart and soul of the ownership. Ownership must have passion, consistency, persistence, and a desire to improve daily. If the leadership,--owner, manager, lead barista, etc., do not have all of these qualities, they will never really compete, they will be just 'another' caffe. Improvement must be an improvement in quality. Rather than asking youself, "How do I make more money?", ask yourself "How do I improve (my drink, my technique, my knowledge, my equipment, my service, etc.)?" Customers are becoming more educated as more and more quality coffee/espresso shops open up, and those who thought they could compete by having comfy chairs, live music, or a winning smile, are finding out that they need newer gimmicks to keep the customers coming. You will never lose customers if you build on a foundation of excellence, you will only gain a loyal following of passionate coffee friends.

Eye Opening and 'Customers Who Get it'

2006-09-12T19:41:00.000-06:00

I live for those 'eye opening' moments when someone takes their first sip--especially if it's my press-pot coffee or a straight latte, cappa, or Americano. When there is an appreciation of the coffee/espresso in the cup, it makes it a great day. Fortunately, we have many of those days.

A few weeks ago a new customer came in, said we were recommended by another shop. He comes every day now and hasn't been back to the other shop. Thank You! :)
When he first came he was looking for 'coffee', we don't do drip coffee, but we do a fantastic fresh-ground, fresh-brewed Americano, and we also do a life-altering press-pot coffee of whatever I have roasted for the week (or additional overrun from customer coffee orders); to make a long story short, he ordered the Americano and was surprised by the depth and complexity of the flavor. He's now bought a new burr grinder, and ordered some of our fresh-roasted coffee so he can expand his enjoyment to press-pot at home. New customers are great. New customers who 'get' it are awesome.

Basics

2006-09-12T19:38:00.000-06:00

I've been cupping coffees for only about nine months, but I still have a lot to learn. I will be taking a very basic cupping class at the Seattle CoffeeFest in October. I think it's good to make certain I really understand the fundamentals beyond my own table, and progress from there. If I'm not learning, I'm not improving.

A New Addition

2006-08-25T16:28:00.000-06:00

Creating an espresso for limited use has its problems, but for the most part, this is not too difficult of a task. However, creating a new espresso as a permanant addition that can be used day in and day out is a daunting task indeed. (indeed! WTF??) Creating an espresso that works well as a shot, and also comes through in the milk, that is distictive, but not too distinctive, that has good mouthfeel, is complex, but not too complex, and has good persistence of flavor is what I am working on doing.

After finishing a couple hours of roasting, I will begin on Monday with what I have theorized in my head will work, and work well. I will do such and such percentage of these beans and adjust grind for flow, etc. When that seems right, I will begin to test. I will experiment with a range of temperatures until I find the 'sweet spot' for that particular manifestation of that blend.

Then I will adjust the percentages, and repeat the process.
And again.
at this point I will compare all three versions and determine a winner.

(Several (even more) inane details have been omitted to spare the reader.)

Panama Carmen Estate

2006-08-03T11:50:00.000-06:00

I was able to secure a small lot of this multi-award winning coffee.
It has been a top 3 Best of Panama for the past several years.
Bright peach and apple with a smooth mouthfeel. It's one of my favorite coffees.

From the Carmen Estate website,
"First Place (90.75 pts) Rainforest Alliance “Cupping for Quality” Competition Long Beach, CA, April 2005 -Second Place (88.00 pts) Rainforest Alliance “Cupping for Quality” Competition Long Beach, CA , April 2006 -Third Place (89.7 pts) Best of Panama “Cupping for Quality” Competition Volcán, April 2006 -Third Place (92.54 pts) Best of Panama “Cupping for Quality” Competition Boquete, April 2005 -Third Place (88.05 pts) Best of Panama “Cupping for Quality” Competition Boquete, April 2003 CARMEN ESTATE is a family owned business. We are sustainable coffee growers and very high quality, green coffee exporters. In 1950 Efrain and Carmen Franceschi began cultivating arabica coffee varieties on their estates. Today our single estate and mill -beneficio- produces just 1,200 bags (60 kg each) of unique quality green coffee beans. It is located in Volcan Valley at an altitude of 1750 meters (5,600 ft); latitude 8° 49’ 25’’ N; longitude 82° 37’ 55’’ W.The valley is considered the most important area in mountain and shade grown coffee plantations of The Baru Volcano region in Panama, Central America. This micro-region is heavily influenced by its proximity to both the Pacific and Atlantic Ocean. The cool, frost free nights typical of the area are coupled with dry, sun drenched days which together create optimal growing conditions. The valley follows the course of the Chiriqui Viejo river as it flows down from the blue mountains of Cerro Punta to the Pacific Ocean. The rich volcanic black soil and superb drainage are ideal for the cultivation of our Arabica varieties Catuai, Caturra and Typica. Our coffee quality consistency has been awarded several times locally and abroad:"

Don't miss it!

Consistency

2006-07-22T10:05:00.000-06:00

Whether you are a barista, a baker, a tax accountant, an actor--or any profession, consistency is key.

As a barista, developing consistency in all aspects of your craft is what will allow experimentation, growth and excellence. Once you have selected the espresso blend (or SO) that you will use, you want to be certain your roaster is providing you with a blend that is consistent in roast level and flavor. You want to grind to a certain 'fineness' that you have determined to best extract ideal flavors from your espresso. You also want to consistently dose the same amount of espresso, and have even (consistent) distribution of the espresso in the portafilter so that every time you pull a shot you are providing the same excellence every time.

I have never dosed by weight. I feel it is unnecessary. BUT you must dose consistently. So in order to evaluate my level of consistency, I decided to weigh after dosing and see how I did.

I put the portafilter on the scale and zeroed the scale. I then dosed, distributed, tamped and then weighed the portafilter (post dosing) and these were my results.

1. 17 grams
2. 17 grams
3. 18 grams
4. 17 grams
5. 17 grams
6. 18 grams

Of course there's always room for improvement, but I am on the right track. If anything in my continued pursuit of excellence, I am consistent.

I think it's time for lunch.

Harrar

2006-07-21T18:53:00.000-06:00

Ethiopian Harrar this year has been very good, if not exceptional at times. It is my best seller on our 'roast to order' whole bean sales. At lighter roasts it has a bright blueberry note that becomes somewhat overwhelming if you let your beans age past two weeks. At a bit darker roasts you can coax out some good chocolate notes and you wind up with chocolate covered blueberry in your cup. As a coffee that's not too difficult to get, if that's not fan fuckingtastic, I don't know what is.

The Panama Carmen Estate is another story, another level of coffee excellence.
Maybe I'll explore that next time.

The mysteries of blending

2006-07-15T15:59:00.000-06:00

Blending coffee can be a tricky task. Whether you are blending for coffee or blending for espresso, each has their own difficulties.

I have not been blending long enough to pinpoint all of the pertinent differences, but between the two, I find espresso blending to be a little more difficult. Which is a simple way of saying, "so much to learn..."

Sometimes I use Brazilian as a base, sometimes I don't. I try to match general origin, bean size/moisture content, or both if I preblend; otherwise, I roast each bean separately. Sometimes roasting separately takes too damn long, and sometimes the percentages are so low that its not feasible to do in small amounts.

I think about what each bean will lend to the blend, whether it is a lower toned chocolate, a higher fruited note, or maybe a middle of the road nutty flavor. I think in terms of washed, semi-washed, and dry process when thinking about crema, mouthfeel, and persistency of flavor.
What am I using as my base?
Is this bean X adding or subtracting? In what way?
What degree of roast is optimum for each bean?
Do I use beans with the same approximate optimum roast temperature?

Wait three days.

Test. Test. Test. Change brew temp. Test test test. Change brew temp. Test test test.
Repeat.
Finally come to a conclusion, and either praise or damn the beans.
It's never the roaster's fault... really. *grin*

Inspiring to be Average

2006-06-30T20:15:00.000-06:00

My wife and I went to have lunch at a local "Japanese" restaurant for lunch--the ubiquitous 'Mikado'. The first thing you note about Mikado when you enter is how beautifully the marble hostess area is, as well as the tatami rooms lining the east wall. Once you are past that however, the idea, sans menu items, that you are in a Japanese restaurant begins to dissipate. The music and decor do not lend any noteable ambiance to the restaurant, but the primarily Japanese/Asian sushi chefs and majority of the same for hostesses adds a nice touch.

We ordered the gyoza and the agedashi tofu for appetizers, along with an iced tea and a beer. The waitress opened and delivered the beer opened, but did not pour. No water was offered--this is ok were it an actual Japanese restaurant, but the roomful of sweaty businessmen, made it defineable as pseudo-Japanese.

The appetizers arrived and, as a set, were the best part of the meal. The gyozo skin was slightly browned, and perfect in texture. The taste blended well with the sauce which had a nice hint of citrus in it~ala a ponzu variation.
The agedashi dofu were cubed into about 1 1/4 inch pieces and the broth was flavorful--allowing the tofu to melt delightfully in the mouth.

We ordered the ramen and the ginger pork, along with one order of tamago nigiri-zushi. As we were finishing our appetizers, our tamago was delivered--except that it was not tamago, it was eggplant. While the eggplant nigiri-zushi was actually a very tasty surprise, this presented two problems. First, this was lunchtime and there should be no reason to be out of tamago. I highly doubt that a slew of customers rushed in during the first two hours of lunch service and all asked for tamago. I think they did not have any prepared. This should have been communicated to the waitress so she would not have to approach our table with something that we did not order. The second problem is that the sushi chef made a substitution without asking if this is what we wanted. If we were sitting at the sushi bar, this is a different dynamic, and there is more of a flow of both dialogue and dining presence while being served directly by the sushi chef. But to not inform us before the replacement item is made and to charge us the same price is bordering quite precariously with being unacceptable. At this time, we were able to get the attention of the waitress for some water. I will leave this as inadequate communication on my part, and inadequate training on her part.

The thinly sliced ginger pork was served on a bed of Japanese slaw, with a bowl of steamed rice. The presentation was good, and the ginger sauce contained just enough ginger to blend nicely with the pork, but not so much that it became pork flavored ginger. The slaw was flavorful and was a nice addition. Overall, pretty good.

The ramen was an unfortunate demise. Perhaps the positive reviews of Mikado's tasty ramen from a few friends led to unrealistic expectations, but from the level of service and food that should be delivered from this restaurant, it was average to uninspiring. Now I knew that Mikado does not make their own ramen noodles. This can be ok, but what is not ok is for a section of the noodles to still be clumped together in a triangular shape as if still retaining a section of its original frozen form. The noodles themselves were decent. Not bad. Not great. Decent. The pork broth was tasty, but it lacked any depth to its flavor, and it was too thin for a pork based ramen. A pork-miso, rather than a chicken broth and pork paste would have been much better. But please, separating the noodles would have gone a long way in preserving some dignity with the ramen.

Grades:
Drink Service: C

Appetizers:
gyoza: B
agedashi tofu: B+

Main:
ginger pork: B
ramen : C-

Final Grade: C+

Excellence

2006-06-23T19:31:00.000-06:00

Excellence is something that's lacking in most food and drink establishments these days. Be it a top tier restaurant, a chain restaurant, or the local independant coffee house--excellence is hard to come by.

Excellence has to be across the board. Ambiance, decor, product quality, employee look, and service all have to be great, consistent, and each area must complement the others.
Perfect service by fat and slovenly employees does not work, neither does a industrial looking goth bar with a kickin' bartender that plays only Vivaldi and Brahms.

I am often reluctant to go to some of the recommended Italian restaurants here knowing that at best they serve piss poor coffee and espresso. Sorry, I don't give a rats ass how good your food is-- if you report yourself to be 'high-end' Italian, then you had better bring it with a top-notch cappuccino. Conversely if you are high-end Japanese--serve a perfect green or buckwheat tea. How can you have a chef spend years working on their craft only to have their dish ruined by piss poor coffee? Every facet of the restaurant, including liquor and/or coffee service must all achieve excellence for the restaurant itself to be excellent--otherwise you have only pseudo-excellence.

If you try to manufacture excellence you will fail. If you breathe excellence you will succeed. Breathe in excellence, breathe out excellence, and everyone will share in your passion.

Attention to Detail

2006-06-21T18:51:00.000-06:00

A small rant...
There is a new employee at the bank. Let's call him "Skippy". Of the four times I've been 'fortunate' to have him be the available teller, he is SLOW, has to recount money too many times, and three out of the four times has made mistakes I've had to correct. This leads to repetitively bad service because of the lack of attention to detail. The two biggest reasons for bad service are employer, rather than employee based. The first reason is hiring the wrong people/bad screening process; the second reason is improper training.

Two rules to live by as an employer.

Step 1: Hire someone who is self-motivated, passionate about what you do--or in the least has something they are passionate about--, and make certain they can and will follow direction (are trainable).

Step 2: Train them well, and immediately dismiss them if YOU failed the first step.

It's easy to get frustrated with whomever, be it your barista, your waiter, your banker, or the guy at your local convenience store. But remember, they didn't hire themselves. An idiot can't help that they're an idiot, but what does that make the person who hired them?

Consulting

2006-06-13T10:49:00.000-06:00

I've been getting a number of requests over the past several months to do some consulting work. Among all of the daily questions from customers, newbie 'barista', and start-ups this is something I may consider pursuing. I think, "But I have so much to learn." It comes as a surprise to me that many people are not willing to seek out information on their own. Sure many of us in the industry exchange ideas and a few techniques, but one needs to show a certain level of commitment, a pursuit of perfection that can innoculate all the swill-drinkers against their malaise.

How can you be in the business for five, ten, even twenty years and serve garbage? Do you even want to learn how to not cripple the public's taste buds with your carbon ridden, tongue biting brew? I say, "Catch up, join the 'Third Wave' or get left behind." Morning comes once a day, but that chance to inspire comes every moment. Isn't it better to inspire than to poison? :)

I guess it is appropriate to look at greed as a disease, because in my opinion that is the difference between putting the coffee/espresso first and putting the profits first. It would be fair to say all of us want success. But who will you f$#! in order to get it? Low quality, overroasted beans that sit for weeks--sometimes even months, hoardes of untrained 'barista' all because of owners who don't care, or worse, who don't know. There is no excuse for stupidity, but if it was a crime, we'd all see the wrong side of a cell.

So at the end of my rambling; it once again comes to educating the public. Especially those who choose to enter the fray. Consult? I'm still perfecting my craft, but to that Tom, Dick, or Harriet who has the passion, but doesn't have the time to pursue caffeinated enlightenment on their own--if you're interested, I'm sure we can work something out--over a nice cup of coffee.

brew temperature does matter

2006-06-08T09:35:00.000-06:00

I wondered when brewing press pot coffee-- since it's not at best drinkable level until its below 150 degrees, how much is the flavor affected if you brew at 180 vs 200 ?

Answer-- a lot. I lose all of the higher fruity or floral nuances and only retain the 'deeper' flavors. The varietal characteristic that make that particular coffee an excellent cup, rather than just a good cup, are not there.

This, of course, is nothing other than what would be expected. But I had to taste it in actual practice, just so I can know.

Espresso or Cupping?

2006-06-05T19:00:00.000-06:00

I've been toying with the idea of having a 'Espresso for the home user' class or offer some weekend cupping classes. There will come a time when I can offer both, but each has its own set of logistical problems, time involved, etc.

It's great when customers enjoy our coffee or ask questions here and there about espresso. I think we've even convinved a few into buying a good home setup--good burr grinder and all.

Stay tuned...

Public Education

2006-06-02T17:14:00.000-06:00

Coffee education is important but it often presents a dilemma on how to convey the information to the customer so as not to make them feel 'stupid'. For the most part I try to educate by taste. The proof is in the cup. You will ask questions when you begin to wonder, "Why isn't all coffee this good?"

Education of the customer begins with my own daily education. Origin flavors, varietal flavors, how a particular roast works well for one bean and not for another, how the cup changes and gains 'character' as you drink it, understanding 'how' to taste coffee... These are things I do my best to learn about in some form or another daily.

I know if I start with a better bean, and produce a fresher and more flavorful cup, all I need to do is improve daily and I will always remain ahead of the pack. I don't always think it's what one knows that is important, it's realizing how much more there is to learn that matters.

So whether a customer asks, "How come this Brazilian tastes nothing like that Brazilian you had the other day," I just might be able to answer them.

Questions lead to answers which lead to more questions. All require study. Educate yourself, then educate the world. Banish coffee ignorance. :)

Roasting

2006-03-31T18:56:00.000-07:00

My learning curve is growing quickly since I have started Roasting to Order this month. I have already had some repeat customers, so that is a good sign. I've roasted Costa Rican La Minita Tarrazu, Ethiopian Harrar, and Ethiopian Sidamo.

The La Minita was probably the most finicky of the bunch for me, as it seemed to have more of a narrow window to hit just the right 'sweet spot'. The Sidamo was very popular, as I sold out of my available stock on my 3rd day of taking orders. The aromatics on the Sidamo are incredible. Sort of a plum/raisin coffee with just a hint of black pepper in the finish. For me the deeper plum--maybe fig(?) notes intensify as it cools. Whatever the hell it is... good cup.

I was sick the previous week so I hadn't had a chance to cup the Harrar. I just crossed my fingers and trusted I would roast it just right for the three customers that had already ordered it. I roasted enough to save a small batch for myself and yesterday, I finally had a chance to cup everything. WOW! Blueberry up the wazoo! Blueberry aromatics, blueberry in the cup, and a nice little chocolate tone as it cools. Many times I have to search for some of the flavors that should be present. Most of this is just a lack of experience as a cupper... not being able to put a particular name to a particular flavor every time--but that's coming along ok so far.
But with this Harrar, there was no guesswork. Wonderful.
I am roasting 2 more pounds of this wonderful coffee tomorrow for some new customers.
I rock! :)

Training is Essential

2006-03-03T16:36:00.000-07:00

Whether you have a "top tier" espresso machine for $7K upwards, or you have a lower-priced, lower quality machine, all things being equal, training your barista is perhaps the most important, and most neglected link in the espresso production chain.

Let's assume you are using fresh, properly roasted espresso beans and a good grinder. I know that many establishments can't even manage to do that---but if that's you--STOP! (fresh beans, fresh ground....please).

Training needs to begin with the owner. Either the owner needs to be passionate about his product, and seek professional training OR the owner can hire a professional to come and train their staff. The problem I most often see is that the only training the owner/manager receives is from the salesman/tech they purchased the machine from. They are told, "You just grind it like so, put it in this portafilter here, and smash it with this deal on the side of the grinder..." Really!! This is just like buying a Viking range from your high-end appliance store, and after being told how to adjust the flame, etc---- you are now a master chef! Cool how that works, huh.

Espresso preparation is a culinary art. Those who don't treat it as such produce mediocre espresso on their best day.

'Perfect practice makes perfect' I always say. So before you attempt to call yourself a barista, or call your employees barista--damn well make sure they are trained properly and your espresso will go from being a tone deaf kazoo player to a symphony orchestra.

AikiBarista

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