Observations on Failure and Success

After watching most of the BBC version and the first two shows of the US version of Gordon Ramsay's "Kitchen Nightmares," it is easy to see why so many in the foodservice business, be it a restaurant or a coffee shop, fail. Not including location and lack of capital, which are often two of the primary business killers, I want to look at those things that are overlooked but often prove to be the death nail.

Lack of Preparation Before Opening: This is the time to do serious homework. You need to do everything including flow in the kitchen, color and size of plates, where will you source your products--have you tested all of these products... How will you price? Why will you price? What is on the menu? Is everyone trained?, Who is your target? Is the menu developed to attract that target? What type of external marketing will you do? What type of internal marketing will you do? And hundreds of other things.

Too Complex: Menus with too many selections. If your customers take fifteen minutes just to read the menu, they will probably get bored or confused.

No Leadership: Poor management and/or lack of leadership. This is 100% fault of the ownership.

Lack of Detail: This goes in conjunction with Lack of Preparation. Once you have opened, it's understanding those little details that make the difference. Is all the food going out at the same time? Is it all hot? Is there crema on your Americano? Are you testing your shots daily? Do you put latte art on all latte? Are your plates clean, etc. Details.

These problems are both universal and easy to remedy, but you have to have the will to do it. Success is not a byproduct of passion and the fact that you love something doesn't mean you will be good at it. Understanding the reasons for business failure is one way to assure your competitive edge and move beyond mere survival.

Do you have what it takes?

The Concept of "Firing Customers"

In "Lessons in Excellence from Charlie Trotter,(pp195-196)" Paul Clarke writes,

"After you pick your customers by carefully targeting a relatively homogeneous market, it's time to narrow the market further. More than likely, some customers aren't right for your business, particularly if your is an enterprise that attempts to offer customers truly distinctive products or services. So get rid of customers who aren't right. This contemporary and somewhat unconventional business practice is known as "firing customers."

"If you want to make your business better sometimes, it's not always a question of trying to make every customer happy," explains Trotter. "Maybe it's better to fire certain segments of your customer base to make what you do even better for your best customers."
...

Why would any business want to get rid of paying customers? For one thing, your product, company, or service is defined not only by its features, uses, and benefits, but also by its customers or users. Also, in service businesses, certain customers--for example, smokers or young children--could alienate your best customers. Most important, the objective of firing is not simply to get rid of certain customers, but to fine-tune the product or the marketing message for your target market."

It is important for each of us to designate our position in the market and craft our entire business philosophy from product quality to quality of service to reflect that. This is something that we have been doing since day one, and while this is foreign to many in our industry --trust me, I've seen their ideas of "marketing"-- it is an important lesson that we can learn from one of the greats in the service industry.

This idea of "firing customers" is more evolved in European, and to some degree, Asian countries. The faulty logic that too many in our industry have is that a "customer" is anyone with a couple of bucks who walks through the door and orders a drink. Those who understand market positioning, and dominating that position will tell you that in order to define your market, you have to create a culture of excellence where the customer seeks your expertise, rather than questions it.

If the industry is to evolve, you should not be afraid to "fire" customers from time to time...BUT to do so without understanding and defining your place in the market will be perilous.

The Wizardry of Great Coffee

Correct Roast.
Correct Grind.
Correct Temperature.
Complete Saturation.
Correct Brew Time.

These are elements that must all come together to produce a cup that will mesmerize your tastebuds. If any of these aspects is off you will end up with something amiss in your cup.

Lately, I have been experimenting with vacuum (siphon) coffee brewing and concentrating on the perfection of this brewing method. What looks like a crazy experiment put on by "Mr. Wizard" is one of the best methods for brewing coffee.



After the water approaches boiling in the bottom chamber it begins to create water vapor, which having nowhere else to go, seeks to expand within the confined space and pushes the liquid into the top chamber. The liquid cools slightly while in the top chamber and the continual expansion and condensation of the gas in the lower chamber creates a slightly fluctuating pressure which results in a turbulence in the top chamber. This turbulence, although it looks like boiling water, is not, and I suspect it is one of the primary reasons you can use a short steep/brew time, yet still extract amazing flavors in the cup.

A good butane burner with an adjustable flame will allow you to precisely control the brewing temperature, so rather than a declining temperature, you can maintain a flat line temperature--much like that done in the Synesso Cyncra and Lamarzocco GB5 espresso machines. The theory being that a flat line temperature can more easily extract consistent flavors every time and the ability to adjust the temperature by raising or lowering the flame allows to you find the 'sweet spot' for your particular coffee at hand.

The siphon brewer does its best highlighting the complex, flavorful and bright coffees, and it tends to bring transparency to the deeper flavors. It's like cupping on steroids because once you understand your brew temperature you are given the gift of a multi-dimensional cup that sings with complexity, yet displays an undeniable clarity in each progressive sip.

I will be seeking out several siphon shops in Japan during our visit this December, such as Hanafusa, the first siphon shop in Kyoto.

But until then, I will continue to conjour up some magical brews.

The Dog Whisperer?

This past Saturday, a boy stopped in to get some water for his dog. I happily filled the dish for him and asked if he was driving. He said he was "out" and they needed to stop. I thought well of someone taking care of their dog while out walking, but nothing more of it after that.

About a half-hour later, Tim, from the record shop next door, said, "Do you know who the dog outside belongs to?" Apparently they had stopped to eat upstairs.
"Uh... a boy..Why?"
"He's not letting people past!"

I went outside to assess the situation. Nice looking lab mix hooked to the far end of the patio growling and barking at anyone approaching. He seemed more scared and confused then anything, but I had a line of customers to attend to, so I said, "I'll be back." And went in to take care of our customers.

After going back out, the dog looked and quietly growled but did not bark. I walked right up to him and stopped, letting him approach me. He continued to growl slightly and I stepped forward and pointed at him, "Quiet! Down!" He took a step backward and after a moment of hesitation, flopped down. I immediately patted his head and scratched his ears. At this time someone was walking by, and although he now felt safe with me, he still had on his mind "stranger!" and he jumped up and barked at the passerby. I grabbed his mouth and sternly looked at him and he calmed down. Right then, about seven or eight people came out through the doorway and he quietly lay there absorbing it all. Once he understood it was a safe environment, he was content. About an hour later, the girlfriend of the owner came downstairs and I told her of the incident. "He's such a big teddy bear," she said.
He was, he just needed someone to reassure him for a moment.

I Have Two Pea...

...Berry coffee.

I have FIVE new coffee offerings, two of which are unique peaberries.

First on the list is a Nicaragua Matagalpa, which is both of the Pacamara cultivar, and a peaberry. Sweet and smokey, like from a good barbecue. Spicy notes with pulped fruits tobacco, and a hint of pepper at the finish. This is worth two or three cups just for the hell of it.

Second is an extremely rare Sumatra Blue Batak peaberry. This Sumatran hails from the Lake Toba region, where the indiginous Batak people work the coffee. Unlike the heavy and earthy tones one is familiar with in a Sumatran, this coffee has a bright, slightly winey sweetness that carries through the cup. A raw sugar and cinnamon note surround this sweetness that ends with a lingering spice note. An unusual and remarkable Sumatran.

I'll key you in on the next three coffees after the weekend.

An Bean-O-Riffic Extravaganza

I'm awaiting a shipment of five new coffees this week. I'm particularly looking forward to a Sumatran "Batak" peaberry. So stay tuned and I'll be posting some new offerings on our caffe website as well.

Salt Lake City's Cosmopolitan Best

An article, "caffe d'bolla - consistent proof that what's in the cup really counts" by Les Roka on his professional blog, The Selective Echo, states it ever so clearly, "[caffe d'bolla] has become the city’s indisputable center for specialty coffee and tea and often the city’s only source for farm-specific coffee varieties of exceptional quality."

As I sit here, roasting a new batch of Mountain Mambo espresso, I flex my fingers in anticipation at what the future holds. Stay tuned, we're only going to get better.