Wednesday, July 07, 2010
Quality vs. Speed
When there is a surge of customers, do you hurry through the drinks, sacrificing quality for speed, or do you expect your customers to understand that it takes a couple of minutes to produce good lattes, and even more time when there's seven of them?
John Says...
Strive for perfection in every drink; it will show, and your customers will wait. On busy days, customers will stand in line for ten minutes just to have a shot of espresso. This need for waiting a long time is rare, but from time to time it happens. If you establish the quality of your product with every drink, including dumping bad shots during a mad rush, I really don't see it as an issue. What I do see is a golden opportunity to educate your customers on your commitment to serve each of them the best drink possible.
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Regarding Selling Whole Bean vs Pre-Ground
The question was asked...
When selling coffee, does it help to know which of your customers grind?
John Says...
Coffee should always be sold fresh-roasted, and whole bean. Quality is not an inconvenience. Quality=Caring.
If you educate on the pros of fresh ground and the cons of pre-ground coffee, offer grinder suggestions, or sell grinders yourself, that is often a good solution. But, in my opinion, if you grind *only* in order to make the sale, you are missing the point. The owner that doesn't care about how the coffee reaches the customer doesn't care about the customer; they only care about making the sale. And that is sad.
I'm certain some owners may see that as too hard core, but if you care, your customers will care, and follow suit. Does it eliminate a portion of possible sales? Yes. But it's these kinds of principles that will open doors to a whole new array of wonderful customers.
Saturday, June 12, 2010
"What is Specialty Coffee?"
John Says...
Although great strides have been made in the industry, the sad fact is the term "Specialty Coffee" has lost its meaning, and 'Artisan Coffee' is nearing the same state. When Specialty Coffee started, many think of Starbucks and Peets as the forerunners. Others think of what George Howell did in Boston in the 70's and 80's the true forerunner to 'Specialty Coffee'.
Is Specialty Coffee the Starbucks model?
Is it about focus on blended, syrupy, gimmicky, profit first drinks? Is it about being a cool "coffee shop"? Is it about the 'Third Place' or is it about the coffee at the 'Third Place'?
Or is Specialty Coffee something more? Is it about craftsmanship, about elevating coffee to a new level? Is it about understanding the bean, how the various flavor elements found in different varietals can be combined together in a grand symphony of flavors? Is it about truly understanding why we fresh grind, dose a particular amount, distribute uniformly and tamp uniformly? Is it about CoE coffees, and Is it about "coffee as a culinary experience?" Is it about customers' smiles coming from what's in the cup, rather than what the barista are wearing?
Whatever the term has become, "Specialty Coffee" should truly be about Special Coffee!
Specialty Coffee should be about what the 'average' coffee shop looks to for inspiration. As an industry do you want to be a host of Starbucks wannabees competing on who can create the tallest whipped cream on their banana caramel double fudge (half-caf)latte? Or do you want to be something that both proprietors of old and new can aspire to be? Specialty coffee should not pretentious or exclusionary. Excellence welcomes all who care to champion the quality cause and wield her cup. Specialty Coffee should mean something other than a fancy catch-phrase. Specialty Coffee should be about raising the bar. And if this is so, why do so many aspire to be average, or fail to even see the where the bar has been raised?
All of us barista, shop owners, roasters, and coffee enthusiasts should be leading the industry to the best of our ability, helping it progress, and living up to the embodiment of what Specialty Coffee can be.
On Brewing Into the Cup
Q: While reading and learning, I've ran across statements that indicate the quality of the shot is better if brewed directly into the serving cup. So my question is, how many of you brew into the serving cup, shot glass, or brewing pitcher. Does any of the three have advantages over the other?
John Says..
I believe it's a must. I wouldn't frequent a place that as a practice brews into shot glasses and transfers. To me, it shows a lack of understanding of espresso. The essence of espresso--the body/flavor/mouthfeel, etc. all result from having proper crema.
If you transfer, there is too much loss of crema. This results in a significant loss in taste and body, as well as makes it more difficult to do proper latte art.
Even with the gallons of milk some shops like to shove into their drinks, it makes a HUGE difference. These are still espresso based drinks, and if the base is not perfect, it will resonate throughout the drink.
Secondly, it's an unnecessary step. Why brew and transfer?
More dishes to wash (I hate washing MORE dishes!!), and you lose a good portion of the thing (espresso) you just went to the trouble to make. What is AWFUL is those who do decide to use this method, who reuse the same shot glasses instead of grabbing fresh ones for every drink. At least make the effort. This ultimately is the fault of the owner. The barista, for the most part, will only do as they are trained. The world-class barista will always question methodology and seek a better way.
BUT if you are not fresh grinding per drink, with fresh roasted beans, and doing all the other things that are necessary at a minimum to make proper espresso drinks--it really doesn't matter--go ahead transfer away, no one will know the difference.
George,
asking implies caring. And that is the right path to be on. Every day is a new day to improve.
Friday, April 02, 2010
Panama Gesha - Hacienda Esmeralda: Sweet and sublime perfection
I've tasted Gesha cultivar a few years ago in a wonderful "Don Pachi" from Stumptown, but this is the first batch of Gesha from the wonderful Hacienda Esmeralda that I have roasted myself.
Today I've tested two cups of this coffee on the siphon, and this transcends every coffee I've had up to this point.
First what hits you is the aromatics, they playfully coax your senses where you can almost feel the texture in your mouth before it touches your lips. As it cools to drinking temperature you get a sense of what you are about to have.
First is the silky smooth mouthfeel and sweet berry notes. Careful to take only sips so you can decipher the blueberry from the raspberry and strawberry. In the middle of nowhere a sweet jasmine note leaps out. As the cup cools some notes are sweeter and brighter and some are round and fruity. Some flavors nestle on licorice. Some flavors mingle on berries. Others playfully dance about your mouth with cautious merriment. Red currant. Strawberry. Soft jammy blueberry layered on sweet jasmine. As it leaves my mouth the sweetness lingers, the flavors hide in my cheeks only to reveal themselves minutes later.
The last sip. blueberry, strawberry, jasmine. Both separate and together. Smoothness. Gentleness. Sweet and sublime perfection.
Saturday, July 18, 2009
The Best Cup of Coffee - caffe d'bolla's siphon brew
› Caffe d’Bolla’s siphon brew
"This is not your breakfast cuppa java—you may not have time for your usual second cup. Caffe d’Bolla’s transcendental coffee is brewed by a master fanatic who pays as much attention to making your single cup as he might to walking a tightrope without a net. It deserves to be savored just as attentively. 249 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-355-1398"
Salt Lake Magazine link HERE
Wednesday, July 08, 2009
(Excerpt from) The Short List: SLC Eats [Downtown]
"...People can think what they want about this adopted city of mine. We, like Buffalonians and Oaklanders, travel beyond our city limits with stereotypes and a barrage of lame jokes. The reality is, Salt Lake City is a bit of secret. Some of us like to keep it that way (those who already think there are enough California refugees in state limits) and some who love to preach the affordable cost of living, gorgeous landscape and the fact that not everyone is "of the faith."
I often tell my baffled out-of-state friends to think of SLC (all cities seem to have a hip or diminutive moniker, NYC, Sac-Town, Philly...) as a Chicago. A cultural — and in Utah's case, a political — capital surrounded by perceivably less enticing realms. The only difference: Red rock is infinitely cooler than acres of government subsidized corn.
Thanks to a variety of factors, we are a surprisingly diverse lot on this blue island in a very politically red sea. And despite the officializing of Jell-O as the state food, we regularly consume other cuisines. Some are of the innocuous chain variety. But a good deal are local endeavors that feature talented chefs, local products and even — get this — alcohol. Private club laws that plagued the city have gone the way of the covered wagon. I'll drink to that.
My day job means that I get to troll much of the state in search of the best molé, tom kha ga, frites, hand made pasta, micro brews, wine lists, pastries and more. I often get asked for dining recommendations through the day job, my work with Slow Food Utah and this blog. It's safe to say that downtown SLC has a high concentration of the good eats, all within walking distance of the public transportation. I even urge locals to use since parking is a nightmare. Plus, Trax trains are free within the downtown area.
So, for curious readers and soon-to-be travelers, I offer what I consider my shortlist of good, interesting Downtown SLC eats. [NOTE: This is by no means a comprehensive list of what I dig in the state. For advice beyond city limits, i.e. if you have a car to take you into other neighborhoods and cities, contact me. I'd love to dish.]
For another perspective on the City of Salt, check out this thoughtful blog from a fantastic writer and food-lover.
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Caffe d'Bolla [249 E. 400 South, #B, 801.355.1398]
For caffeine freaks and connoiseurs alike. SLC's teetoling and caffeine-free stereotypes belie the coffee geniuses who have set up shop in the city. Most notably, is John Piquet's Caffe d'Bolla. Along with his wife, Yiching, he micro roasts high quality beans, sourced from all over the world. He talks coffee the way a sommelier talks wine.
This is not the place for lovers of Java/Espresso/Joe/Cafe/Etc. "Express," or "On the Go." This is thinking man's coffee. You come in, order one of the daily brews or a finely pulled espresso shot and sit down and sip like a civilized person.
Caffe d'Bolla is one of the handful of cafes in the country that offer Japanese siphon brewing. This laboratory-looking contraption brews elegant cups free of grit (sorry, Greek coffee lovers) and full of nuance. Watching John measure and grind the beans, track water temperature and set the timer is akin to watching the rituals of a Japanese tea ceremony. Only this time, you sit at the bar, with a tall glass of water and a shot of sparkling water to cleanse the palate.
Plus, richly flavored, densely smooth gelato, spun in small batches, on-site and some of the best Boba Tea (tapioca pearl tea) in the region.
Take TRAX to the Library Square stop, Caffe d'Bolla is right across the street on the north side."
http://shecraves.typepad.com/my_weblog/2009/07/the-short-list-slc-eats.html#more